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Multipitch classic routes – climbing V to VII

climbing demanding multi pitch classic routes

This section is about classic routes from medium to high difficulty (see here for easy -medium routes). It goes without saying that the examples here cannot possibly be exhaustive. Rather, they represent an overview giving a taste of what to expect in the pursuit of these Classic climbing routes. The Dolomites, in fact, thanks to their 16000 km extension and the around 50 different mountain ranges, offer a number and variety of classic rock climbing routes which is probably unrivaled in the world. Just to clear things up, with “Classic” we mean an ascent of moderate difficulty (up to grade VI-VI+) with traditional protection and a good knowledge of the route, mostly gathered by many repetitions by other climbers.

type of activity

climbing classic routes

activity level

from medium to expert

customised programme

see below

Info some interesting multi pitch classic routes in Dolomites Prices

Info

Customised

WHERE TO STAY

Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organise your journey, with suggestions on where to stay and how to get there. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.

CUSTOMISED PLAN

Contact us. We will ask you a few things and we’ll together come up with a customised programme.
1) We will suggest an activity package tailored around your experience and wishes.
2) Choosing us means climbing together with local IFMGA guides, always up-to-date on the best choices given current rock and weather conditions (wind, temperature, walls that may be wet)

ROUTE LEVEL

Classic style alpine routes, grades between UIAA V+ and VII

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment and clothing, except climbing shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

some interesting multi pitch classic routes in Dolomites

LASTOI DI FORMIN, West Face

The Lastoi di Formin are an impressive mountain group sidelining the hairpin turns of the road leading from Cortina d’Ampezzo up to Giau Pass. This mountain’s main feature is a huge summit plateau and a vertical 300 metres cliff to get up to it.

AMEDEO route, Marcella tower, Lastoi di Formin, grade V+, 220 metres. This tower is part of the Lastoi di Formin great wall, the route ascends with an intermediate grade right in the middle of the wall, along a pretty line of small cracks. Rock quality is always excellent and the pleasure is guaranteed.

PIZ CHIAVACEZ

Chiavacez’s south face is one of the most popular in the Dolomites for multi pitch classic and sports routes: right by the road, it offers many enjoyable climbing routes on solid rock. Its only downside can be the queues on the route starts. Half-way, the cliff is cut by a ledge. Routes starting from the base end up on the ledge, whilst routes leading to the summit start from the ledge.

SHOUBERT, grade VI-, 250 metres. Elegant route sporting some athletic climbing on cracks and slabs.
VINATZER DIEHDRAL, grade V+ A0, 220 metres. This is one of the routes starting from the halfway ledge, a wonderful one among chimneys and cracks.

CIMA SCOTONI

Perhaps located right in one of the most charming corners of the Dolomites, it looks like a smooth rocky blackboard broken by two ledges. From the top our view spans from Val Badia underneath to the Dolomites’ giants of the likes of Antelao, Pelmo, Marmolada and Civetta.

FACHIRI ROUTE, grade VI, 400 metres. This is one of champion Enzo Cozzolino‘s masterpieces. As opposed to the first route on the cliff (Lacedelli route), this one sports a slightly more consistent and homogeneous grade on surprisingly solid rock.

THREE PEAKS of LAVAREDO

These peaks’ charm, an icon among Sesto’s Dolomites, attracts not just those who dream in climbing its multi-pitches, but also many tourists crowding the paths around the base, thanks to convenient road access. Despite the crowds and rock quality not always the best, their profile and the elegance of their classic routes and big walls routes, is like a magnet for the climbers.

DIBONA’s corner, Great Peak of Lavaredo, grade IV, 550 metres. The north-east edge of the great peak is the one starting from the scree slopes at the base of those epic north faces and leading all the way up to the summit cross. Climbing is never too strenuous and the views over the north face are just wonderful.

YELLOW corner, Small Peak of Lavaredo, grade VI-, 300 metres. This is another classic that any climber would want in its logbook. The route follows a daring edge line, looking for a passage to the summit among yellow overhanging rocks and roofs.

PIZ DA LECH

Thanks to a convenient chairlift from Corvara in Badia we will get to the base of Sella massif, at a small basin whose surrounding cliffs can make a climber feel small and a little scared perhaps.
Sas deles Diesc and Sas deles Nu, Piz da Lech south-eastern cliffs , offer excellent rock quality, a high-altitude experience and the convenience of a very short approach.

DORIGATTI, GAMBISI route, Piz da Lech south-eastern cliff, grade V+, 270 metres:. The black and yellow wall of Piz da Lech will catch our eye as soon as we get off the chairlift.
This route manages to overcome the impressive cliff by means of chimneys, cracks and slabs. There’s nothing missing here!

CASTIGLIONI, DETASSIS route, Sas deles Diesc, grade V, 350 metres: The anfitheatre-like wall carries on to the left-hand side with Sas de les Diesc. This suggested route is mostly along chimneys leading to the summit of this cute peak, with grades around IV and a pitch at V.
AERO FOBIA route, Sas deles Nu, grade VI+, 280 metres: The impressive cliff of Sas Deles Nu, completing the anfitheatre, rises up from the impressive rocky gap visible from down below. This is a fairly demanding route which first overcomes some serious overhangs then, once past the edge, carries on along some magnificient slabs.

SAS DELA CRUSC

This summit’s west cliff impressive size dominates Val Badia. Sunset paints a fascinating red shade, enchanting onlookers from down below and, moreover, whoever is still struggling on the rocks. Climbers first get a comfortable lift to a medieval monastery thanks to the chairlifts. Then, they leave the gentle pastures to tackle a rocky foot with stones and gravel. Once at the base, here is where some of the nicest and most demanding routes in the Dolomites start.

MAYERL DIHEDRAL, sas dela Crusc west cliff, grade VI+, 300+ 250 metres: Despite the overall higher grade, this is the line tackling the cliff’s weakest point. The route takes us through some demanding climbing rarely below grade V. Rock is magnificient.

TOFANA DI ROZES, SOUTH FACE

this is a great and convoluted cliff dominating over Cortina d’Ampezzo valley. Its main feature is a 800 metre maximum vertical ascent on the vertical line falling from the main summit and lower height pillars that resemble the walls of a huge castle. Climbing is on excellent Dolomia rock; this rock is also responsible for its typical reddish colour.

ALVERA-POMPANIN route, Tofana’s first corner, grade V+, 430 metres: This classic route is almost always along the edge line, its climbing aerial and satisfying despite the grade always being between IV and V and just one nice dihedral pitch at V+.

COSTANTINI-GHEDINA route, Tofana second corner, grade VI-, 600 metres:. Tofana’s second and central pillar is the highest and presents the hardest routes. This route is a very coveted classic. Rock is always excellent, first on some nice grey slabs then, after a tricky travers which is also the hardest pitch, runs along the edge line until the summit.

SELLA TOWERS

these are some of the most iconic Dolomite peaks. What makes them so well known is not just their extraordinary beauty, but also their proximity to the Sella pass road, definitely making the climber’s job easier. A scenic summit and a variety of great routes are the common characteristic of each of the four towers.

MESSNER route, Second Tower, grade V+, 240 metres: A masterpiece by the great South Tyrolese champion. At the time, such a sustained route on open slabs was almost madness; nowadays is a demanding, wonderful test.
VINATZER route, Third tower, grade VI-, 350 metres: this is an elegant route on excellent rock. It tackles vertical west face through a roof sticking out of the rock more than 2 metres. A real Dolomitic gem!
MALSINER-MORODER route, fourth tower, grade VI+, 345 metres:. Fourth tower’s north face is made up of great niches, edges and cracks. Thus, this route is pretty varied and convoluted and rock quality is not always excellent. The crux pitch is a demanding overhanging wall.

MEISULES DALA BIESCES

This wall is the northern buttress to the Sella massif. This not a proper summit, rather a series of rocky ramparts ending up at a large ledge. Even if the multi-pitches routes around here do not lead to a summit, the strong points on climbing those, are the excellent rock and the convenient approach just from the road.

BRUSIN route, Meisules east tower, grade VI+, 200 metres: this route involves 6 demanding pitches that, whilst wearing out our arms, will put a smile on our faces.

SIEGLINDE route, Meisules, grade V, 200 metres: this route runs along an elegant edge, with splendid crack climbing mostly at grade IV with a few sections at grade V.

FRANZ route, Meisules, grade VI+, 300 metres:. Perhaps the greatest classic on this face, it’s definitely a demanding climb requiring a good 4 to 5 effortful hours on excellent rock and great slabs.

L’NEIN route, Meisules, grade V+, 280 metres: This is one of those thoroughly satisfying and enthusing routes: it’s not the strength that matters here, but smartness and a clever foot dance.

CATINACCIO

This is the most famous group in Fassa valley. Its characteristic eastern face and its pink shade in the morning light smiles over the pastures down by the Gardeccia. Catinaccio is made up of several peaks, all of them offer solid rock and great climbing.

STEGER route, Punta Emma, grade V+, 400 metres: this is Punta Emma’s classic. Here the challenge is not so much the technical difficulty but rather its length. Its spectacular summit provides a special viewpoint on famous Torri del Vaiolet (Vaiolet’s Towers) group.

EISENSTECKEN route, Punta Emma, grade VI, 220 metres:. The relatively short north face offers a masterpiece route: a vertical wall requiring good slab climbing skills.

STEGER route, Main peak, grade VI-, 700 metres:. This multi-pitch classic route could be the launching point towards the Dolomites big walls. This is a majestic route overcoming famous Catinaccio eastern face. Luckily, most of the tricky climbing sections are down below and rock is extraordinarily good throughout its 700 metres length.

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