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Via ferrata: from difficult to extreme in the Dolomites
On this chapter we introduce few examples of high difficult Via Ferrata. These itineraries are suitable for well-trained people who already some experience in the mountains. The Dolomite via ferrata tend to never be technically extreme but very long, exposed and in a severe, alpine environment: these itineraries often present sections of scramble in the lack of the wire, where nerve is mandatory. These Via Ferrata give the opportunity to reach the highest and most important peaks in the Dolomites: Marmolada, Civetta, Tofana and much more. We feel proud to have the chance of showing you these beautiful peaks, and to think about your wellness and safety.
WHERE TO STAY
Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organise your journey, with suggestions on where to stay and how to get there, in Dolomites summer you can read some suggestions. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.
EQUIPMENT
The guide can provide all technical equipment except clothing and proper shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.
YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE
Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide within UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local mountain guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.
7 difficult ferrata for 7 valleys
VAL GARDENA, Sasso Piatto
The Schuster Via Ferrata gets at the top of “cima di Mezzo del Sassopiatto” at almost 3000 meters. The greatest difficulties are not to be found in the wire sections but rather the sections where there is no cable and therefore the progression has to be done attached on the guide rope, scrambling between rocks and exposed steps.
Time: 7 hours totally of which 3 of via Ferrata
PASSO PORDOI, Piz Boè.
The via ferrata Piazzetta is considered one of the most difficult in the Dolomites. In fact the first 100 meters (vertical gap) of the via ferrata are extremely vertical and exposed. Along this section the arms gets easily pumped, so feeling the tightrope between you and your guide is more than welcome. Once this more demanding part has been completed, it continues on uneven terrain up to a large saddle; once you get there you still have to sweat along a steep path to the splendid top of Piz Boè (3152 meters) where we certainly wouldn’t expect the surprise of finding a warm and welcoming refuge. After refreshing ourselves we begin the pleasant descent: at the beginning is steep down from the top-pyramid of Piz Boè, then gentle through the Pordoi plateau, up to the cable car that comfortably takes us back to the pass.
Time: 1h20 approach, 3h ferrata, 1h30 descent.
PASSO FEDAIA, Marmolada
The Marmolada is known as “The Queen of the Dolomites“, because, by an elevation of 3343 meters, is the highest point in the Dolomites. The via Ferrata “della Cresta Ovest” is a long and spectacular itinerary that develops between the glacier on the north side and the great void of the south face. The approach begins from the Pian dei Fiacconi refuge which has to be reached on foot, at least until the old lift will not be replaced. This extra walk (the lift closed in 2019) perhaps makes the journey even more satisfying. Once you reach the beginning of the wire, at the Marmolada fork, you will climb along the smooth rock slabs up to the last piece of ridge, among rock and ice. Once you reach the summit cross, crampons are lowered to go down the steep glacier and return, after an exciting adventure, to the Pian dei Fiacconi refuge.
Time: 7 hours of which 3 of via ferrata.
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, Tofana di Mezzo.
The Tofana di Mezzo (3244 meters high) is a Dolomite colossus which is the highest point of the peaks around Cortina d’ampezzo. The most exciting way to reach the top is certainly through its southern spur that runs from the Pomedes refuge to the summit. The via ferrata that runs along the mentioned spur takes three names, as there are two escape routes to divide the sections. So the first stretch, more athletic, is called Punta Anna (which we find in the Intermediate Vie Ferrate section). Successively the Olivieri ferrata and the Tofana di Mezzo ferrata, although technically easier, take place in a severe alpine environment. After such a long ascent, with more than 1000 positive meters of via ferrata, the descent could be a nightmare, but fortunately, a few meters below the top, the cable car comes to aid …
time: 8 hours of via ferrata.
PASSO FALZAREGO, Cima Fanes.
Together with the Piazzetta, the Tomaselli, is the most technically difficult via ferrata of our proposals. It takes place in an environment of great charm, surrounded by very high walls; in this place is still perfectly visible the remains of the war that was fought between 1915 and 1918. The Fanes Sud peak is a steep tower on all sides, and in fact, once the small peak has been conquered, the descent also takes place along a fairly demanding via ferrata. The ascent, on the other hand, includes long vertical sections along which the tightrope of your guide represents pleasant safety.
time: 1.30h approach, 3h ferrata, 1h30 return.
VAL ZOLDANA, Civetta
The Via Ferrata “degli Alleghesi” is a great challenge on one of the the highest and most imposing massifs in the Dolomites; the Alleghesi develops on its North-West ridge. The beauty of the ridge and the fact this route isn’t overtly busy, make them thoroughly recommendable. The route is long with a total ascent around 1800 metres. Luckly, just under the summit, we can find Torrani mountain hut, the 2nd highest hut in the Dolomites and definitely the one with the trickiest access. They will welcome us with a hot meal and comfortable blankets. The sunrise from there will be a priceless, unforgettable show. So an overnight stay here will not just be an unforgettable experience by itself but also would make softer for the legs the long way down through the regular route or the Via Ferrata Tissi.
Time: 2 days.
VAL DI FASSA, Ciampac.
The via ferrata “dei finanzieri” at the top of Ciampac in Val di Fassa is among the most remote and less busy among those presented. This lack of fame is certainly wrong because for all those who do not fear the commitment of a long climb, it offers beautiful landscapes and a lot of satisfaction. If you are fancy for hut to hut tour this Via Ferrata is included in our wild tour. Thanks to the Ciampac cable car, the approach is really short, so that we can better enjoy the beautiful rock slabs that lead us to face the key part of the climb: an overhanging rock band that is overcome thanks to the presence of a long metal staircase . Beyond this stretch we will still have to struggle to reach the splendid peak and then the long descent on the opposite side. Really close to here the Via Ferrata “I Magnifici 4” is renowned to be an extreme via ferrata. If you think climbing it, better to take your climbing shoes with you!
time: 30 min approach, 3h30 via ferrata, 2h30 return.
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