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An unconventional hike in the Dolomites: the shepherds’ high route

This high route winds in the “Agordine” and “S. Martino” in the Veneto region on the border with Trentino Alto Adige. This corner of the Dolomites is not affected by mass tourism, as it can be in the neighboring valleys, and so it preserves the authentic charm of a place to be discovered. Beware of thinking we are in the second-rate Dolomites: here we walk in the shadow of Mount Civetta and Agner, and at the foot of the immense wall of Marmolada’s south face; in short, briefly we are in the heart of the Dolomites.
We will begin the trek by exploring the mountains above the enchanted San Lucano Valley, then we will descend below the plateau of the San Martino peaks, and, having passed through the town of Falcade we will walk along the high shepherd’s path. This is an unconventional hike because 2 of 5 nights will be spent on a “casera”: a unique experience.

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WHERE

This unconventional and original high route winds in the “Agordine” and “S. Martino” in the Veneto region on the border with Trentino Alto Adige. Part of it goes along the shepherds’ high route, part is totally original.

EQUIPMENT

The sleeping bags are required

ALL-INCLUSIVE PRICE

The price includes the accommodations during the hike.  The night before the hike as well as the last night must be paid in place. You can download the price list on the price page.

YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Our job is to make the most of every bit of experience we carry, allowing to discover together the pleasures of that exciting practice which is being in the mountains. We believe that the better way for you to get the best customised plan, is to talk with your assigned guide from the start. Click here and discover who we are.

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Program

Accomodation

Casera

During this dolomites hut-to-hut hiking we will spend two nights in places called “casera.” A “casera” is an ancient settlement found in high-altitude pastures, consisting of cowshed for cows, building for cheese production, refuge for people. From ancestral times until the 1950s, cows and the shepherds would move here, from mid-June to mid-September. Nowadays only a few “caseras” are still active, many are disused and in ruin, the others remain open unattended and well maintained by the local community for use by hikers (they usually have a stove and wood available, cots for sleeping and table). Active “casera” are sometimes managed, is so, they offer room and local food or more frequently just food, the real Km 0!

how a "casera" looks like from the inside: simple tables and stove but an incredibly charmy atmosphere.
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Program

programme

DAY 1: Welcome to extraordinary Dolomites

Arrival in Dolomites: from Venice airport takes about 2 hours. Dinner and night at B&B a renovate ancient rural house in a tiny, alpine village. The town, the forests, and the mountains which surround the valley quickly introduce us in what will be the highlight of this week: the unique and extraordinary beauty of the Dolomites.

a Larch is loosing the needles during the Autumn.

DAY 2: our unusual Dolomites track can start

After 30-minutes transfer and the trek will start. The beginning is from another tiny village at 1200 meters elevation: the trail climbs up to a fork at 2300. From here we have a long descent where the first “Casera” is located. This refuge is pretty big and very comfortable, outside there’s the water spring, inside there are blankets and mattresses, table, and above all, a big fireplace.
Night and self-managed dinner in the Casera.

  • 6-7 hours
  • 1300 meters up
along an unusual dolomites track: there's a larch which is orange, a pine which is green and the blu sky of the Autumn.

DAY 3: hiking along a long ridge

The day begins with a challenging ascent, reaching an altitude of 2000 meters, from here we will walk along a ridge trail that offers an astonishing view above the Gares valley. At the end of the ridge, after passing another nice little “casera”, we will start a long descent till reaching a hut just at the bottom of the valley. Here we can get a sandwich or some good “Canederli” in order to be ready for the next up-hill.
In 1,30 hours we will reach our tonight “Casera”: this one is still managed, a nice family and their cows live up here from the end of June to the end of September, making their own amazing cheese. We will eat and sleep here.

  • 6-7 hours
  • 900 meters up
A great view of the Dolomites during the fall. Alta via dei Pastori

DAY 4: back to world for just a while

From the Casera climb to fork at 2200 and long descent to the town. From here it is necessary to cut the distance with a small car transfer. From here we will start going up again, and after a couple of hours of a beautiful hike, we will finally reach tonight’s hut. This charming wood-inlaid hut is managed and offers excellent food and drinks.
Night and dinner at the Baita.

  • 5-6 hours
  • 950 meters up
the pasture's high route, a small cabin at the front and an autumn, orange colored, grassy field

DAY 5: a long day trip on the shepherds’ high route

This day will be a long, unforgettable day. The trail winds up to the south side of the mountain, it reaches a little fork, then goes down till starting going up again: it will reach another fork and after that another one. We will walk more than 14 km today! Almost at the end of the day, we will find our food deposit. After putting some extra and delicious weight on our shoulders we will hike up for the last hour of the day, till tonight charmy Casera will be finally reached.

  • 8-9 hours
  • 800 meters up
walking along an unconventional hike in the Dolomites: 3 people are moving across a steep grassy slope, astonishing peaks are on the background. Alta via dei pastori.

DAY 6: finally summit and back down

During this extraordinary hike in the Dolomites, we had all sorts of unforgettable experiences: good food, wonderful sunsets, warm fire, a night sky full of stars, and some of the most beautiful mountain scenarios in the world, longs, and challenging trails etc… But we still miss something: what? We didn’t reach any summit yet. Here we go and today is the day. Let’s do it aware that this will be the last effort of the week. After touching the stones at the highest point we take the way down. Soon the rocks will leave space for the pastures and after the forest. Soon we will reach some houses which mark the civilization indeed the end of this great adventure. Tonight we will sleep again on the first night place.

  • 6-7 hours
  • 400 meters up
A autumn picture: some snow is already on the ground, but mostly is still orange grass. At the distance the Marmolada south face is standing as a gigant.

DAY 7: way back home

After breakfast is time to say goodbye to these places. Transfer back to the airport.

2022 hiking 3 1

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The wild Via Ferrata tour in Fassa valley: away from the crowd

Val di Fassa is one of the most popular holiday destinations in the Dolomites, unfortunately, some days the paths in the Catinaccio area, can be more crowded than some beaches! But moving just on the other side of the valley, where the trails are a little bit more demanding, we get a much more unspoiled and wild nature. This is the case of the ridges and peaks surrounding the magical San Niccolò Valley. This Via Ferrata guided tour includes the climbs of two challenging via ferratas and another three days where the technical effort gets lower but the overall one remains high, with many meters in altitude and distances to be covered reserved for well-trained people. The constants of the whole tour are the nights in uncrowded refuges, privileged views and silence to savor.

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WHERE

This tour takes place in the Fassa Dolomites, in particular in between the Vallaccia group and Marmolada, along Costabella and  Monzoni ridges.

 

 

CUSTOMISED PLAN

Contact us. We will ask you a few things and we’ll together come up with a customised programme.

  1. The 5-day programme illustrated below is an example: we will agree on a personalized program, from 2 to 5 or more days.
  2. briefly tell us something about your prior experience and general level of fitness. We will suggest an activity package tailored around your experience and wishes.

 

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment, except for clothing and approach shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

 

All-inclusive deal

You can choose to book an activity-only package, or an all-inclusive deal. The ALL-INCLUSIVE is recommended for hut-to hut trips. More information below under ‘Prices‘.

 

YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide or, more precisely, an Alpine Guide that is UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local alpine guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.

 

video

 

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Program

Via Ferrata tour day by day

Wild Fassa guided tour

The 5-day program illustrated below is an example: based on your availability we will agree on a personalized program, from 2 to 5 or more days.

Autonomous arrival (private transfer on request) in Fassa valley and hotel accommodation. Pozza di Fassa is a beautiful alpine village and the closest to our starting point. The pretty small town center, surrounded by woods and alpine peaks, immediately gives us the charge and energy for the following days.

 

senza titolo 412

DAY 1: an optional very demanding day

Ferrata dei Magnifici quattro: by public shuttle we reach the gorgeous Valle di San Niccolò: its forest and the stream that flows on the bottom of the valley, are the perfect welcome. In about 30 minutes approach we reach the start of the via ferrata, while we get ready, it is worth dwelling on the splendid panorama of Cima Dodici, a view that will also accompany us throughout the first part of the ascent. The via ferrata immediately proved difficult, in fact it is one of the most demanding of all the Dolomites. Here the safety of the guide’s rope can be a pleasant sensation for many. At the end of the climb, satisfied for the ascent, we still have a good hour of walking to reach the Ciampac refuge, where we will spend a cheerful evening and a silent night.

Time: 30 min approach, 3h ferrata, 1h30 trekking.

 

Dolomites guided tour Wild Fassa Valley

DAY 2: a tough day

Ferrata dei finanzieri:  from Ciampac refuge  a short approach lead us at the beginning of the Via Ferrata, which is one of the less popular of Val di Fassa. This lack of fame is certainly wrong because for all the people who do not fear the commitment of a long climb, it offers beautiful landscapes and lot of satisfaction.  some enjoyable rock slabs lead us to face the key part of the climb: an overhanging rock band that we shall overcome thanks to the presence of a long metal staircase. Beyond this stretch, we will still have to struggle to reach the splendid peak and then the long descent on the opposite side.

Time: 20 min approach, 3h30 via ferrata, 2h30 trekking.

 

Via ferrata, Ferrata finanzieri Colac, Fassa Valley, Dolomites

DAY 3: a long day of the tour

Ferrata Bepi Zac: Although we do not want to the Via Ferrata tour must go on, so we leave the San Niccolò refuge and its extraordinary panorama to descend 45 minutes along the San Niccolò valley, upon reaching a shelter we begin a strenuous climb which, in about two hours and half, will bring us back to altitude, on the Costabella ridge. This long ridge was, during the First World War, entirely fortified by the Austro-Hungarian soldiers, and today it can be retraced thanks to the via ferrata that we are going to follow. During the next three hours, we will have the opportunity to touch three summits: Cima della Campagnacia, Piccol Laste and Gran Laste. Tiring ups and downs are common for this kind of ridge itineraries, where fatigue is counterbalanced by the breathtaking views. Finally we reach another fork: Passo Selle where the homonymous refuge stands.

Time: 3 h trekking, 3 h ferrata.

 

looking back after the Bepi Zac trail, Fassa Valley

DAY 4: this day will amaze you

Ferrata Federspiel: the ridge of Costabella, which we started to cross yesterday, continues towards the Valacia group. The trail changes its name and becomes, in fact, Federspiel. This high route combines splendid panoramas with interesting historical suggestions regarding the great war; additionally it is less frequented than the Bepi Zac. Today the equipped passages that we will face are actually few, although the technical level is low, the path requires maximum attention and a firm foot, given the presence of many exposed passages. The effort of the numerous ups and downs, even today, is rewarded by the incredible landscapes. Finally reached the Forcella della Costela we go down for a short stretch until we reach the Valacia refuge.

Time: 5h via ferrata, 30 min descent.

 

looking at the next hut, Federspiel, Fassa Valley, Dolomites

DAY 5: up above the sky

Ferrata Gadotti: technically easy, the length of this ferrata deterring most of the people, making this itinerary lonely and wild. Today it will be difficult to meet other people, wildlife sightings are much more frequent. Our multi-day program allowed us to be already at altitude and to be able to tackle the via ferrata mostly downhill. This means that for us the day, although tiring, it will be with the gravity! In about two hours of ascent we reach the highest point, the peak of Punta Vallaccia with its extraordinary panorama that extends from the Lagorai to the Catinaccio. Here a fantastic route with passages in natural tunnels, ladders and sharp ridges will lead us to touch two other splendid peaks: Sas Aut and Sasso delle Dodici, before starting the long descent that will take us back to the valley, full of breathtaking views, effort and emotions at the end of five exciting days. After so much effort we return to Pozza di Fassa where the Via Ferrata tour is over but the renowned QC thermals could be an excellent program for the following day.

Time: 2h ascent, 4h ferrata, 1h 30 descent.

 

Via ferrata, Gadotti, Vallaccia, Fassa Valley, Dolomites

Comments

Your voice

Echoo
My son and I did 4 days on the “Wild Via Ferrata” hut-to-hut. The days were physically really challenging and the effort was absolutely worth the sense of achievement and incredible views. There were 5 others doing the same route as us, we’d dine and celebrate each days triumph at the Refugio. It was very social, but also easy to find a quiet space. Highly recommend this, one of the best things I’ve ever done in my life and a great way to spend quality time with my son (he’s 21). We genuinely feel proud of each other. Thank you to our guides Fabrizio, Matteo and Giovanni for surpassing our expectations, pushing our limits and always keeping us safe.
Andrew Angus
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The WW1 traverse is a hut to hut tour

During this six-days tour, we will tackle the medium difficulty via ferrata in the Cortina d’Ampezzo area, which were, over 100 years ago, the scene of epic battles at high altitude between the two Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies. In addition to having fun on these perfectly equipped itineraries, we will be able to closely observe trenches, galleries, firing stations that today form an authentic open-air museum, at high altitude!

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WHERE

The traverse ww1 tour takes place near the Falzarego pass, close to Cortina d’Ampezzo Dolomites

 

 

CUSTOMISED PLAN

All our activities are customised depending on your wishes and circumstances:

  1. The 6-day program illustrated below is an example: based on your availability we will agree on a personalized program, from 2 to 6 or more days.
  2. Briefly tell us something about your prior experience and general level of fitness. We will then put together a plan that fits your wishes and experience.

 

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment, except for clothing and approach shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

 

All-inclusive deal

You can choose to book an activity-only package, or an all-inclusive deal. The ALL-INCLUSIVE is recommended for hut-to hut trips. More information below under ‘Prices‘.

 

YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Choosing us means climbing together with local guides, which means that we not just guarantee the IFMGA guides professionality standards but we are also always up-to-date on the best choices, given current rock and weather conditions (wind, temperature, walls that may be wet)

 

“A cannon is hoisted by our (soldiers) almost to the top of Cima Grande di Lavaredo and to the top of Mount Popera: the cannon that – shot from the stars -. The fight was among the rocks of the Tofane, the Cristallo, the Paterno, the Croda Rossa di Sesto. The resistance to weather and frost was accomplished to a very high level which would have seemed inconceivable before; during the two coldest winters of the last sixty years, living and operating for months and months on the supreme heights of the Tofane, the Cristallo, the Cima Undici , the Croda Rossa di Sesto … ”

from the Eastern Dolomites Vol. 1, Antonio Berti
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Program

DAY by DAY

WW1 hut to hut tour

The 6-day program illustrated below is an example: based on your availability we will agree on a personalized program, from 2 to 6 or more days.

ARRIVAL IN THE DOLOMITES

Autonomous arrival (private transfer on request) at Falzarego pass and hotel location. A few kilometers below the Falzarego pass is settle Andrax Castle, a very small village surrounded by the forest, famous for its ancient medieval castle perched on a dominant rock.

Accommodation in hotel.

 

Passo Falzarego, Lastoi di Formin, dolomites

DAY 1: the hut to hut trip starts

Ferrata Fusetti at Sass de Stria: from last night hotel we straight start our trek which initially winds through fir trees and a rich undergrowth, but soon leads us to reach the mountain pastures from which we begin to glimpse the spectacular scenery of the Dolomite peaks. After about two hours of trekking, we reach the first rocks of the south face of Sass de Stria and we get ready to face the first via ferrata of our tour, the one dedicated to Lieutenant Mario Fusetti, who died during the First World War, right on this mountain. Once the fun ferrata is over, all that remains is to continue among the ancient trenches to the top. Finally we go down to the Valparola refuge, which offers us, in addition to a superb view over the whole Val Badia, also an excellent dinner!

Time: 2h30 trekking, 1h30 via ferrata, 1h return.

 

almost at the end of the easy Via Ferrata Tenent Fusetti

DAY 2: a unique experience of the ww1 traverse

Piccolo Lagazuoi tunnel: from the Val Parola refuge we start and after about 20 minutes of walking we get at the base of Piccolo Lagazuoi. A steep path climbs up a scree. Soon we realize that we are actually crossing a tangle of old trenches: here, as perhaps in no other mountain, the war of position has reached its peak. And in fact holes and trenches follow one another as we climb to the top. Once reached the summit, not only an incredible panorama awaits us, but also a good refreshment at the Lagazuoi refuge. At this point, wearing the head-lamps, we begin the descent through an endless tunnel that was built by Italian soldiers in the bowels of the mountain and finally used for the explosion of a huge mine that would have changed the shape of the entire mountain forever. Once out of the tunnel we just have to reach the beautiful Col Gallina refuge where we will spend the night.

Time: 3h ascent, 2 hours descent.

 

Via Ferrata Lagazuoi tunnels, Passo Falzarego, Dolomites.

DAY 3: a medium difficulty via ferrata

Ferrata degli Alpini, Col dei Boss: (here the video) from Col Gallina refuge in about 40 minutes we’ll reach an area of ​​ruins with large buildings: it is the Italian military hospital built in 1916 surrounded by high walls, sheltered from enemy fire. Although the complex of buildings has fallen into disrepair, the contrast between the size of the buildings and the severe alpine environment around, is certainly capable of dismay in the observer. Right here begins a long rocky ridge which in about 3 hours of fun climbing will take us to the top of Col dei Boss. From this summit we begin a trek along a barren and spectacular plateau which is also the scene of an absurd war of position, then starting to descend in altitude, until we reach the Dibona refuge, right at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. For the more trained it is also possible to take a detour of the traverse ww1 tour to visit the Castelletto peak and its galleries.

Time: 40 minutes approach, 3 h ferrata, 2h30 trekking.

 

Via Ferrata Col dei Boss, Falzarego Pass, Dolomites.

DAY 4: in the heart of the Dolomites

Ferrata di punta Anna: today the most athletic ferrata of our tour awaits us: the ferrata runs along a sharp ridge which develops all over the south-est corner of Tofana di Mezzo. The main features of this itinerary are a short approach, a fun athletic climbing and a constant exposure. While presenting several challenging steps, the global effort is still to be considered of medium difficulty. The descent is then made quick and fun by the presence of a long scree that allows us to “ski” on its soft bed of small stones, until we reach the Giussani refuge. This refuge stands on a barren stony ground, nestled between high walls and is located exactly on what was the first line of fighting. And it is precisely here that a plaque commemorates the fall of General Cantore.

Time: 40 minutes approach, 3h, 30 via ferrata, 1h descent.

 

Ski and rock climbing guides: Via Ferrata, Punta Anna, Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites.

DAY 5: the most peculiar way

Ferrata Lipella: today’s program is a bit special, in fact we will walk the long ferrata Lipella in the opposite direction: instead of climbing up the east face of the Tofana di Rozes, we will climb  down. After breakfast in the refuge we begin to walk the comfortable path that leads us to the beginning (end) of the ferrata. In the silence of the early morning, observing the war finds at almost 3000 meters above sea level, we can perhaps understand a little better what it meant for a soldier to find himself here, immersed in the same silence, perhaps in winter. We now begin the long and exciting Via Ferrata that will take us, among ledges and ladders, to the base of the peak, reaching the Dibona refuge, which had hosted us two days before. But today, taking advantage of a chair lift ride, we go to sleep in the famous Scoiattoli refuge, for a truly memorable last evening of our tour.

Time: 30 minutes approach, 4h30 via ferrata

 

ww1 traverse along the Via Ferrata Lipella

DAY 6: end of traverse WW1

Ferrata Averau: after a hearty breakfast at the Averau refuge, it begins what will be the worthy conclusion of the traverse ww1 tour; today the program is a bit softer, in fact it is the last day and the tour has been demanding so far but also because today we want to take a nice walk in the center of Cortina d’Ampezzo and why not, some shopping. So in 30 minutes we reach the start of the Averau via ferrata, the via ferrata is short but globally the ascent to the top is very satisfying. After the ritual photos of the summit we begin a nice downhill trek that will take us back slowly to the Falzarego pass, the point from which we started on the first day. As we said, the week ends in Cortina d’Ampezzo, the town, so called “pearl of the Dolomites“, offers nice shops and a well-deserved aperitif. Finally, tonight, you will sleep in a nice hotel with all the comforts.

Time: 30 minutes approach, 2h via ferrata, 1h30 descent.

 

Via Ferrata Averau, Cortina d'ampezzo, Dolomites.

Comments

Your voice

Echoo
Fabrizio is a great guide! We did a six-day route of ferratas and we had a great time, thanks to his knowledge and experience we were very comfortable and safe. He is a real professional. The last day he proposed us to change a ferrata for climbing and it was very fun and beautiful. A very recommendable experience.
Paloma Majadas
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Best solution for perfect Via ferrata holidays in the Dolomites, which fits perfectly for the whole family!

Climbing is one of those sports which little ones can get into very easily. Lightness and flexibility turns it into a breeze. More often than not, it’s the parents having to keep up with their kids in an interesting role-reversal for the entire’s family enjoyment. This suggestion is about mountain climbing adventures and it’s aimed towards families or group of friends, wishing to spend an unforgettable week packed with outdoor sports and discoveries.

Discover enchanting places that are usually challenging to reach without climbing equipment. Go cycling and explore picturesque alpine farms where you can sample delicious local produce. Engage in via ferrata climbs and conquer narrow gullies while safely traversing them with the help of ropes and harnesses—an activity known as canyoning.

These are some of the recurring themes of your holiday. It goes without saying: everything in total safety.

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WHERE

Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organize your journey, with suggestions on where to stay in the Dolomites and how to get there. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.
In Spring and Autumn, for climate reasons, the chosen place in the Dolomites, would necessarily be Sarca Valley. Look at the specific page.

CUSTOMISED PLAN

All our activities are customised depending on your wishes and circumstances:
1) Please send us an email. Besides dates and preferred destinations (if you already have some), briefly tell us something about your prior experience and general level of fitness. We will then put together a plan that fits your wishes and experience.
2) Choosing us means climbing together with local guides, always up-to-date on the best choices given current rock and weather conditions.

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment, except for clothing and approach shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide that is UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local alpine guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.

Disclaimer

The example program below is tailored for a hypothetical family with an active and adventurous spirit who want to try mountain sports!

vacanze avventura famiglie in Dolomiti
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Program

DAY by DAY, an example

Introduction

This suggestion is meant to fit an active family profile, interested in mountain adventures and being active, tackling their first climbing routes.

Outdoor week, arrival in the Dolomites:

own transport arranged to Val Pettorina and check-in to the hotel. Sottoguda is renowned as one of Italy’s most picturesque villages. Sottoguda or nearby villages will be the base for the daily excursions.
Accommodation in 3-star hotel or higher upon request.

A view from Laste, Italy Dolomites. The north wall of Civetta on the background

DAY 1: rock climbing and hut staying

we’ll get on with a cracking start, going for rock climbing! A few hairpin turns will get us on top of Fedaia pass and its lovely alpine lake. We’ll get onto our feet and, after a few minutes, we’ll start to notice weird stone walls and tunnels. These are some of the few remains of the war fought among these mountains between 1916 and 1917. This week we will come across many more. After a 15 minute hike we’ll get to the base of a cool rock face, perfect for our first climbing moves!
After about 3 hours and a few grazes on our skin it’s time to get some lunch. We’ll tackle 1 hour walking up to Pian dei Fiacconi mountain hut, on the northern slopes of Marmolada, the Queen of the Dolomites. Here we will taste the good traditional food and have a good sleep in the special atmosphere of a mountain hut.  we’ll walk across the moraine up to the start of Marmolada glacier. We’ll be surprised at how this charm of nature is actually very much like a fragile living being.

sport climbing for family in 5 towers

DAY 2: a walk on the glacier

Have you ever tried to walk on a glacier? Today we will put the crampons on and tied the rope between us in order to try this amazing experience! Marmolada glacier is in fact a perfect terrain for your first glacier experience: after 1 hour walk, we will get to the Marmolada lift intermediate station. Here we can get a well deserved coffee break; after that the day is not finished yet. Nearby the station there’s an open air museum which allow us to visit the original WW1 soldiers’ barracks, trencees and tunnels: it’s hard to believe that people were leaving up there in such harsh contitions.

a glacier walk: dolomites adventures

DAY 3: WW1 tunnels

We’ll carry on with more rock practice in a fabulous place: the walls we are going to try are right in the middle of an alpine wood, a stone’s throw from an imposing 1000 year old medieval castle built on a rocky buttress. Andrax castle was indeed built along the iron’s route, the metal being extracted from the nearby mine. A little tired from the morning climb, we’ll stop for lunch by “La Baita”, a charming little restaurant.
In the afternoon we’ll get on top of Falzarego pass to visit and cross a long hidden tunnel, dug by the Austrian soldiers during the First World War.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

Stabeler tower, Vajolet Towers, Catinaccio, Dolomites

DAY 4: e-bikes

we are in for a change and we’ll get onto two wheels. We will hire some e-bikes, making the steepest hill an effortless endeavour thanks to their electric power, and head for Malga Laste alpine farm. Once on the forest track, we’ll stop for a moment for a few special hours. Hidden in the woods are some rocky pillars, the perfect place to try abseiling into the void. After a few hours we’ll get back onto the e-bikes up to Malga Laste. After going through the old pastures we’ll finally enjoy some lunch, tasting some locally produced cheese and cured meats. We’ll leave digesting that for the enjoyable and amusing descent.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

High grass fields in the Dolomites

DAY 5: canyoning

for this week’s last day in the Dolomites, our plan involves something special. Have you ever had a go at Canyoning? This practice involves getting into an alpine river’s steep narrow sides and descending it, as if we were one of those water drops. Its essence and fun are given by the abseils on rope and the splashes into the blue waters.

 End of the tour or…keep going!!

Fanes waterfalls, mountain adventures for families

DAY 6: easy-medium via ferrata

today’s plan involves a Via Ferrata. Such a route is essentially climbing aided by a metal rope that not only provides for safety, as we attach our harnesses to it, but is also a great help that aids our progression. Via Ferratas in the Dolomites are generally a fairly long route taking up the entire day. Today’s choice is along a sharp rocky ridge, a great viewpoint on Marmolada’s glacier.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

Via ferrata holidays at Falzarego pass

DAY 7: multipitch climbing

if you had fun yesterday, today the game will get even more exciting. After a few kilometres we will arrive by Giau pass, where we will have a go at our first multi-pitch climb. Not just those 20 metres we tried at the start, but a good 150! No worries, we’ll make it. And once on top the feeling will be great!

Possibility to finish the tour or…

At the top of Small Cir

DAY 8: your choice

you’ll choose today’s plan. After having had a go at a via Ferrata and a multi-pitch climb, you’ll choose to carry on with one of these two kinds depending on which one got you the most excited and would like to attempt again. It goes without saying this will involve visiting yet another grand corner of our Dolomites.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

mountain climbing adventures for family

Comments

Your voice

Echoo
Fabrizio and his team organised the perfect 4 day trip for us including hiking routes, via ferrata and accommodation at refugios. He was great to work with and fun to walk with. We will be back next year for sure!
Charlie Gent
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Via ferrata: from difficult to extreme in the Dolomites

On this chapter we introduce few examples of high difficult Via Ferrata. These itineraries are suitable for well-trained people who already some experience in the mountains. The Dolomite via ferrata tend to never be technically extreme but very long, exposed and in a severe, alpine environment: these itineraries often present sections of scramble in the lack of the wire, where nerve is mandatory. These Via Ferrata give the opportunity to reach the highest and most important peaks in the Dolomites: Marmolada, Civetta, Tofana and much more. We feel proud to have the chance of showing you these beautiful peaks, and to think about your wellness and safety.

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WHERE TO STAY

Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organise your journey, with suggestions on where to stay and how to get there, in Dolomites summer you can read some suggestions. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.

 

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment except clothing and proper shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

 

YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide within UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local mountain guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.

 

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7 difficult ferrata for 7 valleys

VAL GARDENA, Sasso Piatto

The Schuster Via Ferrata gets at the top of “cima di Mezzo del Sassopiatto” at almost 3000 meters. The greatest difficulties are not to be found in the wire sections but rather the sections where there is no cable and therefore the progression has to be done attached on the guide rope, scrambling between rocks and exposed steps.

Time: 7 hours totally of which 3 of via Ferrata

 

Via Ferrata Roda de Vael, Catinaccio, Dolomites

PASSO PORDOI, Piz Boè.

The via ferrata Piazzetta is considered one of the most difficult in the Dolomites. In fact the first 100 meters (vertical gap) of the via ferrata are extremely vertical and exposed. Along this section the arms gets easily pumped, so feeling the tightrope between you and your guide is more than welcome. Once this more demanding part has been completed, it continues on uneven terrain up to a large saddle; once you get there you still have to sweat along a steep path to the splendid top of Piz Boè (3152 meters) where we certainly wouldn’t expect the surprise of finding a warm and welcoming refuge. After refreshing ourselves we begin the pleasant descent: at the beginning is steep down from the top-pyramid of Piz Boè, then gentle through the Pordoi plateau, up to the cable car that comfortably takes us back to the pass.

Time: 1h20 approach, 3h ferrata, 1h30 descent.

 

Via Ferrata Alleghesi, Civetta, Dolomites

PASSO FEDAIA, Marmolada

The Marmolada is known as “The Queen of the Dolomites“, because, by an elevation of 3343 meters, is the highest point in the Dolomites. The via Ferrata “della Cresta Ovest” is a long and spectacular itinerary that develops between the glacier on the north side and the great void of the south face. The approach begins from the Pian dei Fiacconi refuge which has to be reached on foot, at least until the old lift will not be replaced. This extra walk (the lift closed in 2019) perhaps makes the journey even more satisfying. Once you reach the beginning of the wire, at the Marmolada fork, you will climb along the smooth rock slabs up to the last piece of ridge, among rock and ice. Once you reach the summit cross, crampons are lowered to go down the steep glacier and return, after an exciting adventure, to the Pian dei Fiacconi refuge.

Time: 7 hours of which 3 of via ferrata.

 

Via Ferrata Cresta Ovest, Marmolada, Dolomites.

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, Tofana di Mezzo.

The Tofana di Mezzo (3244 meters high) is a Dolomite colossus which is the highest point of the peaks around Cortina d’ampezzo. The most exciting way to reach the top is certainly through its southern spur that runs from the Pomedes refuge to the summit. The via ferrata that runs along the mentioned spur takes three names, as there are two escape routes to divide the sections. So the first stretch, more athletic, is called Punta Anna (which we find in the Intermediate Vie Ferrate section). Successively  the Olivieri ferrata and the Tofana di Mezzo ferrata, although technically easier, take place in a severe alpine environment. After such a long ascent, with more than 1000 positive meters of via ferrata, the descent could be a nightmare, but fortunately, a few meters below the top, the cable car comes to aid …

time: 8 hours of via ferrata.

 

Via Ferrata Tofana di Mezzo, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.

PASSO FALZAREGO, Cima Fanes.

Together with the Piazzetta, the Tomaselli, is the most technically difficult via ferrata of our proposals. It takes place in an environment of great charm, surrounded by very high walls; in this place is still perfectly visible the remains of the war that was fought between 1915 and 1918. The Fanes Sud peak is a steep tower on all sides, and in fact, once the small peak has been conquered, the descent also takes place along a fairly demanding via ferrata. The ascent, on the other hand, includes long vertical sections along which the tightrope of your guide represents pleasant safety.

time: 1.30h approach, 3h ferrata, 1h30 return.

 

view of ferrata tommaselli

VAL ZOLDANA, Civetta

The Via Ferrata “degli Alleghesi” is a great challenge on one of the the highest and most imposing massifs in the Dolomites; the Alleghesi develops on its North-West ridge. The beauty of the ridge and the fact this route isn’t overtly busy, make them thoroughly recommendable. The route is long with a total ascent around 1800 metres. Luckly, just under the summit, we can find Torrani mountain hut, the 2nd highest hut in the Dolomites and definitely the one with the trickiest access. They will welcome us with a hot meal and comfortable blankets. The sunrise from there will be a priceless, unforgettable show. So an overnight stay here will not just be an unforgettable experience by itself but also would make softer for the legs the long way down through the regular route or the Via Ferrata Tissi.

Time: 2 days.

 

At the top of Civetta, Dolomites.

VAL DI FASSA, Ciampac.

The via ferrata “dei finanzieri” at the top of Ciampac in Val di Fassa is among the most remote and less busy among those presented. This lack of fame is certainly wrong because for all those who do not fear the commitment of a long climb, it offers beautiful landscapes and a lot of satisfaction. If you are fancy for hut to hut tour this Via Ferrata is included in our wild tour. Thanks to the Ciampac cable car, the approach is really short, so that we can better enjoy the beautiful rock slabs that lead us to face the key part of the climb: an overhanging rock band that is overcome thanks to the presence of a long metal staircase . Beyond this stretch we will still have to struggle to reach the splendid peak and then the long descent on the opposite side. Really close to here the Via Ferrata “I Magnifici 4” is renowned to be an extreme via ferrata. If you think climbing it, better to take your climbing shoes with you!

time: 30 min approach, 3h30 via ferrata, 2h30 return.

 

Via Ferrata Finanzieri, Colac, Val di Fassa, Dolomites.

Comments

Your voice

Echoo
We booked a three day via ferrata tour for the end of May with FreeWheeling and could not be more thrilled with how it went. FreeDolomite’s communication leading up to our trip was thorough and clear. We asked him a ton of logistical questions related to timing and traveling which he helped with quickly. Also, we didn’t have a car so we stayed in a hotel local to the Via Ferrata’s (per Fabrizio’s suggestion) and he graciously picked us up from our hotel each morning and dropped us back off each afternoon.Once the excursions began, Fabrizio would lay out many options for each day tailored to our ability levels and interests. He was knowledgeable and I felt safe during all of our (sometimes crazy) activities. Each day of activities was different and exciting (different peaks and valleys in the Dolomites). Not to mention he took AMAZING pictures along the way for us.The guide was nice, sociable, on time each day, considerate of our needs, and gave dinner suggestions! He even changed our plan last minute on our last day so we could catch an earlier bus. I cannot recommend FreeWheeling Dolomites enough. THANK YOU!!!!
Greg Cavanaugh
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Some day trip proposals of medium difficulty Via Ferrata

In this page we would introduce some examples of medium-difficulty day trip via ferrata. Therefore itineraries suitable for fit people, even previous mountain experience is not necessary, they should be not afraid of struggling. The via Ferrata in the Dolomites almost never starts directly from the car-park, but usually involves sections of hike. So in addition to the technical difficulty of climbing, the factors that must be taken into account are the total vertical gap of the tour and the exposure to the void. In these suggestions, you will find an intermediate overall difficulty, within a constant exposure to the void and some section of arms pulling!

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WHERE TO STAY

Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organise your journey, here you can read some suggestions on where to stay and how to get there. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.

 

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment except clothing and proper shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

 

YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide  UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local mountain guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.

 

video

 

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8 medium difficult day trip via ferrata

On the WW1 front: Via ferrata degli Alpini Col dei Boss

From Col Gallina refuge in about 40 minutes we’ll reach an area of ​​ruins with large buildings: it is the Italian military hospital built in 1916 surrounded by high walls, sheltered from enemy fire. Although the complex of buildings has fallen into disrepair, the contrast between the size of the buildings and the severe alpine environment around, is certainly capable of dismay in the observer. Right here begins a long rocky ridge which in about 3 hours of fun climbing will take us to the top of Col dei Boss. From this summit we begin a trek along a barren and spectacular plateau which is also the scene of an absurd war of position, then starting to descend in altitude, back to the car park. 

Time: 40 minutes approach, 3 h ferrata, 2h trekking.

The beauty of the Dolomites climbing the classic Via Ferrata degli Alpini

the classic medium difficult via ferrata VAL GARDENA, Pisciadù.

The via Ferrata Tridentina is one of the best known and surely a “masterpiece” in the Dolomites. Once started, we will soon reach the beginning of this via ferrata which enters inside the deep of the Sella group. At the beginning of the season, you can enjoy the privilege of climbing alongside a large waterfall which is due to the melting of the snow at the top. The via ferrata surprise the climbers until the end, in fact a narrow bridge above the void marks the end of the climb.  From here in a few minutes we will reach the Pisciadù refuge and its good alpine meal for a deserved break,  before tackling the descent, along the Pisciadù valley.

Time: 30 min approach, 3h30 ferrata, 1h30 descent.

 

Via Ferrata Tridentina, Pisciadù, Val Badia, Dolomites.

an historical day trip: PASSO S.PELLEGRINO, Costabella.

The Via Ferrata Bepi Zac is a more isolated and remote route than many others, along this itinerary, in addition to the panorama of the surrounding mountains, we can easily do some encounters with wildlife such as ibex and eagles. The approach is made shorter by the presence of a chair lift: from the top station, we’ll reach the Passo Selle hut in about 45 minutes. After a good Italian coffee we start following the wire that soon leads us to a sharp and aerial rocky ridge. These places were the theatre of war in the years between 1915 and 1918 and they still offer us several interesting insights. If you are looking for a hut to hut trip, this itinerary is included in the wild via ferrata tour.

Time: 7 hours in total, 4 of which in via Ferrata.

 

Punta Anna, Tofana di Mezzo, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.

MARMOLADA, cresta del Padon: in front of the queen

As well as the previous route described, this circular itinerary is an historical route, which runs along a sharp, at times very sharp, rocky ridge. The “via ferrata delle Trincee” it goes up and down through rocks that once saw Italian and German soldiers living a few meters away, perhaps more committed to facing an incredibly hostile nature rather than an imposed enemy. After a committing section at the beginning, we tackle exciting passages of more limited difficulty. The view of the Marmolada glacier dominates us along the entire Via ferrata. The last surprise of the day trip: a long tunnel dug during the war, marks the end of the itinerary and leads us near the Padon refuge.

Time: 1h30 approach, 4h30 via ferrata.

 

Via Ferrata delle Trincee, Padon, Dolomites.

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, Punta Fiames.

Punta Fiames is a sharp spire clearly visible looking from Cortina d’Ampezzo, in the direction of Fiames. The via ferrata “Strobel” runs up to this smooth wall: it takes advantage of a series of natural ledges that slowly lead us to the small top. From there we will admire the Tofane in front of us and the Sesto Dolomites behind, in the distance. The descent takes place along a long stony gully where you can practice a full Dolomite discipline: skiing on gravel!

Time: 1h15 approach, 3h30 via ferrata, 1.20 return.

 

up to the ladder Via Ferrata Strobel, Punta Fiames,Cortina d'Ampezzo.

PASSO FALZAREGO, Punta Anna: in the heart of the Dolomites

The Via Ferrata Punta Anna runs along an edge which reaches the summit of Punta Anna, it continues then to the top of the Tofana di Mezzo. The main features of this itinerary are a short approach, a fun athletic climbing and a constant exposure. While presenting several challenging steps, it is still to be considered of average global difficulty. Thankfully for us, the descent can be fast and fun due to the presence of a long scree, which allows us to “ski” on its soft bed of small pebbles.  The end of the tour is at the Dibona refuge, where we have the chance to taste well-deserved refreshment. If you are looking for a hut to hut trip, this itinerary is included in our WW1 traverse.

Time: 40 min approach, 3h via ferrata, 1h20 return.

 

Punta Anna, Tofana di Mezzo, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.

VAL BADIA, Piz da Lech: spectacular medium difficulty via ferrata

The day trip via ferrata we propose here, overcomes a typical dolomites impressive overhanging face, thanks to a series of chimneys and bottlenecks hidden along the rounded edge of the mountain. In addition, however, is necessary to use several metal ladders, the result is certainly a fun ferrata, in a lunar environment. In addition, the approach is very short, thanks to two lifts that from the town of Corvara take us effortlessly to high altitudes. The ferrata then reaches the top of Piz da Lech from which the panorama offered is simply priceless. After a good sandwich we take the downhill path which, after a small equipped section, takes us back to the chair lift.

Time: approach 20 min, 3h30 via ferrata, 1h20 descent.

 

at the top of Piz da Lech

VAL DI FASSA, Masarè: a day trip close to Bolzano

This day trip via ferrata enters the heart of one of the most fascinating Dolomites groups: the Catinaccio. Thanks to the chair lift we can immediately get up to altitude making the approach less tiring. The via ferrata follows a sharp rocky ridge called Masarè, which overlooks the mountain pastures of the Carezza pass. There’s no lack of athletic passages and ladders, but in case it wouldn’t be enough, instead of taking the descent, you can continue to the top of the Roda de Vael!

Times: 1 h approach, 3 h via ferrata, 1 h return.

 

coming up from the fog: Via Ferrata Masarè

Comments

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Echoo
Thanks to the guide, we were able to spend a wonderful day between via ferrata and alpine trekking! Very knowledgeable and approachable, he allowed us to have a truly unique and unforgettable experience! Highly recommended!!!
Francesca Germanò
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Happy to guide you on your first Via Ferrata

In this page we would introduce some examples of low-difficulty itineraries. Therefore via ferrata suitable for beginners without specific mountain experience, who want to look out onto this fantastic world. The via ferrata in the Dolomites almost never starts directly from the car-park, but usually involves sections of hike. So in addition to the technical difficulty of climbing, the factors that must be taken into account are the total vertical gap of the tour and the exposure to the void. In these suggestions, you will therefore find a low overall difficulty even if the thrill of the exposure is still guaranteed!

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WHERE TO STAY

Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organise your journey, here you can read some suggestions on where to stay and how to get there. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.

 

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment except clothing and proper shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

 

YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide  UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local mountain guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.

 

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Program

a list of easy Via Ferrata

VAL GARDENA, GRAN CIR

This beautiful peak looks over Gardena pass; on clear days it’s possible to see its summit cross even from the ski-slopes during the winter. In the Summer, we start walking across the alpine meadows trough the path which reaches a narrow gorge. From here the terrain becomes rocky, until it reaches the ferrata cable. The via ferrata takes advantage of the natural ledges to bring us to enjoy the splendid view of the summit.

time: 1 h approach, 2.30 h via ferrata, 1 h return.

 

we guide on via Ferrata Grande Cir, Passo Gardena, Dolomites.

VAL ZOLDANA, Intra i sas.

This circular route begins on a beautiful path in the woods that climbs up to the cable of the ferrata. The short but fun via ferrata overpass a rocky bastion, by some very exposed ledges. Once the via ferrata is over, we return to the wood.  Shortly this opens into a large meadow, where the beautiful alpine refuge Sora i Sass stands. After a good alpine lunch we are ready to leave along the return path and then back to the valley.

Time: 5 hours total of which 1h via ferrata.

 

Via ferrata Intra i sas, Val Zoldana, Dolomites

VAL CORDEVOLE, Laste.

This very short via ferrata is located in a magical place: an enchanted forest of pines and larches surrounds towers of high rocks. At the top of the highest of these, there is a hanging garden. A bivouac called “Pian delle Stelle bivouac” is hidden among the pines. This secret paradise is reached by the Laste via ferrata.

Time: 2h30 including 30 min via ferrata.

 

via ferrata Laste, Val Cordevole, Dolomites.

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, Fanes waterfalls.

The Fanes waterfalls are an unmissable show: the circular route starts right behind one of these waterfalls, thanks to a narrow passage in-between the rocks. The path continues then with cables and ladders nearby the water. After a section of walking at the streamside, a second ferrata ring awaits us. The activity can be combined with the e-bike, thus giving us an unforgettable day.

time: 1h15 approach, 2.30 h waterfalls, 1.20 return.

 

vacanze avventura con bambini

PASSO FALZAREGO, Sass de Stria.

This via ferrata was built in 2018 and dedicated to lieutenant Mario Fusetti, who died during the First World War, fighting on this mountain. To reach the beginning of the cable we will have to go through ancient war trenches, including a long and narrow tunnel that runs in the deepest of the mountain. Once the fun ferrata is over, all that remains is to continue among the ancient trenches to the top.

time: 1.20 h approach, 1h30 via ferrata, 1h20 return.

 

via ferrata Sass de Stria, Passo Falzarego, Dolomites.

VAL BADIA, Gardenaccia.

The Les Cordes in the past used to lead the shepherds from the village “La Villa” to the high pastures of the Gardenaccia. Today a fun Via ferrata for beginners takes at the grassy plateau where, in addition to the cows, we find refreshment in a beautiful alpine refuge.

time: approach 10 min, 2 h via ferrata, 2 h descent.

 

almost at the end of the easy Via Ferrata Tenent Fusetti

VAL DI FASSA, Roda de Vael.

This via ferrata enters the heart of one of the most fascinating Dolomite groups: the Catinaccio. Thanks to the chair lift, we can immediately get at high elevation, making the approach less tiring. The via ferrata follows a sharp rocky ridge to the stupendous peak overlooking the Carezza mountain pastures. Even the return includes some adrenaline-pumping steps!

time: 2 h approach, 3 h via ferrata, 1 h return.

 

Roda de Vael, Catinaccio, Dolomites.

Comments

Your voice

Echoo
Fabrizio and his team organised the perfect 4 day trip for us including hiking routes, via ferrata and accommodation at refugios. He was great to work with and fun to walk with. We will be back next year for sure!
Charlie Gent
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Plan your trip and start to get ready

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By contacting us, you agree to FreeWheeling Dolomites Terms and Conditions.

Multi-pitch classic routes, up to medium level

The number and variety of multipitch climbing routes on display in the Dolomites is probably unrivaled in the world, thanks to their 16000 km extension and the around 50 different mountain ranges that make them up. Just to clear things up, with “Classic” we mean an ascent usually of no extreme difficulty (up to grade VI-VII) with traditional protection (otherwise click here for bolted routes) and a good knowledge of the route, mostly gathered by many repetitions by other climbers. We present classic routes divided in two sections: easy and moderate grade and medium-high level. It goes without saying that the examples here cannot possibly be exhaustive. Rather, they represent an overview giving a taste of what to expect in the pursuit of these Classic multipitch climbing routes.

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WHERE TO STAY

Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organise your journey, with suggestions on where to stay and how to get there. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.

 

CUSTOMISED PLAN

Contact us. We will ask you a few things and we’ll together come up with a customised programme.
1) We will suggest an activity package tailored around your experience and wishes.
2) Choosing us means climbing together with local guides, always up-to-date on the best choices given current rock and weather conditions (wind, temperature, walls that may be wet)

 

ROUTE LEVEL

Classic style alpine multipitch routes, grades between UIAA III and V

 

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment except clothing and climbing shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

 

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a list of multi pitch Classic routes

TORRI DEL VAJOLET (Vajolet Towers)

The Torri del Vajolet are the quintessential Dolomites image. Incredibly beautiful and daring spires tower above Re Alberto hut, from which they can be easily reached in just a few minutes.

PIAZ route, Torre Delago, grade IV+, 180 metres. Get started on the climb up this edge and you’ll freeze: you will be standing over a 700 metre drop just a few metres from the rock foundation. Pure Dolomites’ magic! The fact such a daring edge is overcome with only moderate difficulties is another pleasant surprise.

 

from Santner pass, the Vajolet towers offer a number of multi pitch classic routes

CAMPANILE DI VAL MONTANAIA (Val Montanaia’s Bell Tower)

this isolated monolith is perhaps the most characteristic symbol of the wild Friulian Dolomites. Every one of its 4 sides is a vertical or overhanging wall. The first ascent’s history is not just about strength, courage and determination, but also trickery and scam. Worth listening to, perhaps on the cosy summit plateau.

NORMAL ROUTE, grade V-, 290 metres. An amusing multipitch on excellent rock. Unfortunately, nowadays the crux is a little worn and greasy therefore quite demanding. The route starts on the southern face and climbs up like a winding staircase, ending up on the northerns side. The descend is pretty exciting too, with its long abseil into the void.

 

view on the Val Montanaia bell tower, an isolated spike in the dolomites

CINQUE DITA (Five Fingers)

The legend talks about a giant defeated and buried by its enemies that, just before exhaling the last breath and turn itself into stone, managed to lift its hand above the ground, thus giving birth to “The Five Fingers

POLLICE (Thumb) route, grade IV, 250 metres. This route is not just about the ease of access, but also the unrivaled exposure: it climbs up right on the edge line, always on good holds and with incredible scenery.

MEDIO (Middle finger) route, grade III+, 300 metres. The “Middle finger” is the higher point among the 5 fingers. Once on the thumb, it’s possible to descend by abseiling and climb up this route’s last few pitches. Once on the summit, we can choose to get down or carry on with the whole 5 finger traverse.

 

climbing the classic route at the 5 fingers in Sassolungo

CIMA DELLA MADONNA (Madonna’s peak)

The Pale di S. Martino are a dolomitic group well known for its lunar plateau between the heights of 2500 and 2800 metres. According to some research, it was the inspiration for Dino Buzzati’s book “The Tartar Steppe“. What matters to us here is the exceptional rock quality, the breathtaking landscapes and the cozyness and warmth of the mountain hut.

SPIGOLO DEL VELO (Veil’s Edge), grade IV+, 430 metres. One of the most well known multi-pitch classic routes that many aspire to. Its conquest involves a long approach up to the hut the day before, a long and superb climb and a never trivial descent.

 

Climbing, Spigolo del Velo, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites

LASTOI di FORMIN

these are a wide rampart-like edge towering over the hairpin bends of the road winding its way from Cortina d’Ampezzo up to Passo Giau. The impressive west face turns towards the south, leaving shorter and more feasible routes in its tracks, with views over the green alpine pastures beneath.

BASTIONE DE MONDEVAL, Placca Nera route (Black Slab), grade III-IV, 180 metres. Around the bottom of this rampart, some neolithic tombs were discovered. It’s incredible to think these places were already known and favourited by our ancestors. The multipitch route is enjoyable and not very sustained, and takes around 2 to 3 hours. The 1 hour and 20 minute approach is pleasant, whilst the descent takes around 1 hour.

 

rock climbing in the Dolomites, Lastoi di Formin

CADINI DI MISURINA

this is a mountain group to the north of Cortina d’Ampezzo. They are clearly visible from the parking place by Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Their most defining characteristic is a tangle of rising towers and deep gullies. This environment is quintessentially Dolomitic.
Despite this, there are plenty of short and medium-graded routes. Two charming huts are found just a few steps from the peaks: Fonda Savio and Città di Carpi. They make it ideal for a few days of intense climbing.

TORRE WUNDT (Wundt Tower), Mazzorana/Del Torso route, grade IV, 200 metres. A multi pitch on excellent rock up to a wonderful tower, not far from Fonda Savio hut.

CAMPANILE DULFER (Dulfer’s bell tower), south edge, grade IV with a short V- step, 300 metres. One of the most popular routes among the climbs starting from Città di Carpi hut, and rightly so. Its main strong points are the very good rock, the nice exposure, the bell tower’s daring shape and the dizzy abseiling to descend.

PUNTA COL DE VARDA, grade III-IV, 230 metres. The peak from which the hut underneath takes its name. Its very elegant and slender shape is tackled by this route on excellent rock. The initial approach is aided by the chairlift, bringing it down to 50 minutes. The multipitch takes around 3 hours, with an extra hour for the descent.

 

At the top of Croda da Lago after climbing Senigallia multi pitch route

LAGAZUOI

This peak sits right above Falzarego pass and is well known for its famous battles and explosions happened during the First World War in 1916-17. Its location is very convenient given the short approaches and the easy descent, which can be done easily by cable car.

IL TRAPEZIO, Giordano route, grade IV-, 180 metres. This nice short route is easily reached with a 30 minute hike. The route stops by the Martini ledge and requires an abseil and another 30 minute hike in order to get down.

PICCOLO LAGAZUOI, via del Buco (Hole route), grade IV, 250 metres. A classic route on excellent rock with two interesting variants. Right at the end, we’ll be surrounded by history, with the remains of the First Wold War, fought more than 100 years ago right in the Dolomites.

 

the classic route Senigallia at Croda da Lago

NUVOLAU

one of the most visited Dolomites summits. Its main attraction is the Nuvolau mountain hut, right on the summit, with its 360 degree view. Luckily, we will escape the crowds until we reach the top. Its more vertical side ain’t touristy at all!

CRODA NEGRA, Gianleo route, grade IV, 180 metres. After a half-hour approach we will get to the bottom of this route. 2 hours of enjoyable multipitch climbing will take us to the summit, thus the well-deserved beer among the breathtaking panorama.

 

spigolo velo 19

Comments

Your voice

Echoo
Absolutely amazing. The guide was a fantastic tour lead – he was very knowledgeable on the area and took some brilliant photos of us as we climbed. We did an intermediate which was just hard enough of a challenge to make it rewarding. Would recommend!
Tom Zadravec
I had a great experience with Fabrizio.He took my partner and I on a 7 pitch multi-pitch in Falzarego pass and we had an amazing time. It was my partners first multi-pitch and we felt safe throughout the whole experience.He had all the adequate gear for us to borrow and took nice photos of us during the climb. He even helped us reorganize our travel itinerary to arrive in Cortina within an appropriate weather window so we could still complete the adventure before the rain since it was late in the season.He speaks great English and Spanish so don’t hesitate to ask any questions, he is very knowledgeable about the area and is a great guide.I will definitely contact Fabrizio next time I want to come climbing in the Dolomites!
Enrico SolRiso
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Searching for wild routes in the Dolomites:

The roads climbing to the Falzarego, Giau, Pordoi and Sella mountain passes make access to many beautiful rock walls very convenient. They can be sighted and easily reached from the car. This section is for whoever wants to get off the beaten track and has the will and determination to take in longer approaches and epic, exciting descents. We will put together an adventure made up of more obscure and wild routes that haven’t seen that many repetitions. These routes aren’t worth any less than the famous ones and will often surprise us at how easy it will be to discover a new vertical world just around each corner.

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WHERE TO STAY

Lesser known routes can be reached from the valley below. However, overnighting in a mountain hut makes everything easier. Our customised plan can then comprise visiting and overnighting in more than one hut, depending on the total number of days and chosen destinations.

CUSTOMISED PLAN

If you are interested on this kind of climbing, first contact us: We will suggest an activity package tailored around your experience and wishes. Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide within UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local mountain guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.

ROUTE LEVEL

Traditional alpine routes.
The actual plan is customised and can comprise normal routes around grade II-III up to sport climbing routes encompassing all grades.
For more detailed route descriptions, see the Regular routes, Rock climbing routes pages.

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment and clothing, except climbing shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

BEST-DAYS OFFER

When booking 5 or more days with us, our guide will be available for 6 days. You can then take advantage of a ‘rest’ day, to be agreed upon at the start. This offer is particularly suited to our environment, where weather conditions aren’t always in our favour. For example, by booking 6 days, the guide will be available for 7 days total, so that we can decide together when to take a break. If you book 7 or 8 days, you can have up to 2 rest days.

ALL-INCLUSIVE DEAL

You can choose to book an activity-only package, or an all-inclusive deal. Accommodation can be arranged as hotel-only, mountain hut or a mixture of the two. More information below under ‘Prices’.

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Program

a list of wild climbing routes

PIZ DEL CORV, Opera Buffa route, grade V+/VI, 350 metres.

This route crosses a beautiful and sunny wall above Selva di Cadore. The approach takes around 1 hour and climbing is mostly on nice grey rocky slabs. Can’t get any better than this as an introduction to the slightly unknown routes.

senza titolo 416

SPIZ DI MEZZODI (North), Somavilla-Angelini route, grade V-/V+, 440 metres.

Spiz Nord’s West face is an impressive jump onto Val Pramper below. At first, it seems impossible a route can successfully overcome such a wall with only moderate difficulties. Moreover, its excellent grey rock makes it very worthwhile. Our adventure will take 2 days: on the first day we will get to Sora i Sass, a charming, old-style mountain hut among an enchanted forest. On the second day we will set off bright and early to tackle some 2 hours of exposed scrambling before being able to put on our climbing shoes and start climbing.

CIMG0345

COL DI BOUSC, “The world imprisoned by Materialism” route, grade VI+:

This route is a splendid, wild and sustained climb on pretty much perfect limestone. This route’s approach is especially brief and the climbing interesting. Not a busy route mostly because of its very recent opening. This is most definitely due to fact that this area, the north side of Marmolada, that is, is still awaiting full discovery.

senza titolo 313 1

CANTONI DI PELSA

this is the final section towards the south among the rampart-like wall in the west face of Mount Civetta. A multitude of peaks, pinnacles and towers make up these ‘Cantoni’, a fascinating rocky labyrinth out of a fairy tale.

Day 1: a 2-hour hike along a convenient forest track takes us to welcoming Vazzoler mountain hut, among pines and larches. Once let go of some of the weight we are carrying, we get back on our feet for a 1 hour and 15 minute hike up to the base of Guglia Rudatis (Rudatis spire).
GUGLIA RUDATIS, south-east edge, grade IV-V, 70 metres. A wafer-thin monolith, with a daring profile like a sharp blade. Unmissable.

Day 2: PUNTA AGORDO, da Roit route, grade V-, 280 metres. Punta Agordo is a beautiful massive peak, overshadowed by the very well-known Torre Venezia just by its side, thus its popularity is not as great, but that precisely makes it for today’s ‘secret’ escapade. Climbing is on great rock and the cruxes are never too demanding. The approach as well is enjoyable, about an hour from the hut.

Day 3: TORRE DELLE MEDE, Livanos route, grade V+/VI, 250 metres. This route was first opened by legendary climbing couple Georges and Sonia Livanos. Climbing is great, on good rock and mostly on slabs. It really doesn’t deserve the lack of interest displayed by climbers so far. This climb too starts just 1 hour’s hike from the Vazzoler hut.

Here ends our unforgettable 3-day stay at the Vazzoler hut. Yet, if you don’t feel exhausted, why not stay an extra day? Or, rather, would you prefer getting back down to the valley, take a well-deserved break for a day then get back onto the hunt for another route off the beaten track?

spigolo velo 22

CREP DA L’ORA, di Nicola route, grade V+, 200 metres.

Today we will get to Val Badia, well known and thus very busy, however we’ll look for a precious hidden gem: Crep de l’Ora. This is an isolated monolith among the scree slopes of a Vallone di Antersass, a pretty wild valley. The long approach to this route is made easier by an e-bike. Once at the base of the monolith, we can start our climb on great rock along an obvious dihedral up to the awesome summit.

Climbing Territori di Caccia route

MARGHERITA TOWER, Lorenzi and Maranelli route, grade V, 110 metres.

This beautiful tower, located among a great landscape of pastures and high peaks, is reached in around 45 minutes from Val Parola mountain hut. The climbing along the edge is enjoyable, culminating in its sharp summit.

torrione marcella amedeo 4

FIRENZE TOWER, route ‘de chei de la dlaite’, grade VI, 300 metres.

A lesser-known wild route on a great summit. From Selva di Val Gardena we start the hike to Firenze mountain hut. From there, a pleasant hike along pastures and rocks will take us to the route start. Climbing is on slabs and along dihedrals and rock is always great.

climbing the classic route at the 5 fingers in Sassolungo

Comments

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Echoo
Fabrizio is an excellent guide that encourages you to challenge yourself! This is our second time on a climbing trip with him, and each time he has created a comprehensive itinerary with variety and options – add to that he has a great sense of humor and is easy to get along with through out a long day. We are already working on a 3rd trip!
Malcolm Alexander
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Tackling the regular route of a dolomite’s peak is a great mountaineering experience.

Every Dolomite peak can be summited by taking many different routes. Among these, the so-called ‘Normal route’ is the simplest. Given the Dolomites convoluted rocky features, the normal route is seldom an easy hike, but a mountaineering experience. More often than not, these can be complex alpine routes with grades up to IV in some cases. The difficulty and demanding characteristics of these routes may not make certain towers or sharper summits achievable for everyone. However, many others require just some moderate level of fitness. Tackling one of these normal routes with a mountain guide is advisable to ‘peak-baggers’ as well as the ones that want to summit a peak but are tired of queuing along via Ferratas. Alone, in the peace and quiet found in a typical ‘Alpine’ day. Some of this routes are long and fairly easy, others are short but demanding. However, they always lead to an enchanting summit: Three peaks of Lavaredo, Torri del Vajolet, Torre Trieste, Torre Venezia, Sorapiss, Croda Rossa d’Ampezzo, Sassolungo, Marmolada… these are only some of the most prized summits.

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WHERE TO STAY

Depending on the agreed plan, we will be happy to help to organise your journey, with suggestions on where to stay and how to get there. If you already have a specific place in mind, we will be happy to meet you wherever you are staying.

CUSTOMISED PLAN

Contact us. We will ask you a few things and we’ll together come up with a customised programme.
Local guides, are always up-to-date on the best choices given current rock and weather conditions (wind, temperature, walls that may be wet): we will be happy to make specifical proposals tailored around your experience and wishes.

ROUTE LEVEL

Alpine routes, mostly scrambling.
The actual route plan is customised, starting from normal routes at grades around II-III up to grade IV.

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment, except clothing and climbing shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

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Program

a list of normal routes

MARMOLADA: the queen of the Dolomites

This section couldn’t possibly start with anything other than the Queen of the Dolomites, their highest summit, standing at 3343 metres high. Marmolada presents a jagged summit ridge, its two main peaks are Punta Rocca and Punta Penia, the latter being the higher one. The distance between the two summits is such that the cable car arriving at Punta Rocca doesn’t seem to bother the mountaineers’ who relentlessly climb up the glacier in order to reach this incredible summit.
This experience is a mountaineering ascent by means of crampons and ice axe along a steep glacier, then a short via ferrata and finally along the summit ridge up to the summit’s cross.
Total ascent: 800 metres, Difficulty: Not very difficult.

Climbing Marmolada glacier, Dolomites.

GRAN VERNEL: a complete mountaineering experience

If Marmolada is known as the Queen of the Dolomites and the Antelao as is its King, Gran Vernel should at least be the Prince, not only because of its height but also its elegant appearance from every side. Its normal route isn’t very busy and represents a true adventure, made up of great effort, tricky sections on rock that can be a little ugly at times and a very exposed final ridge up to the summit. Total ascent: 1140 metres, grade III+.

Guided tours in Catinaccio d'Antermoia

GREAT PEAK of LAVAREDO: the dolomites’ icon

Probably the most coveted among the Dolomites normal routes. The Three Peaks of Lavaredo, famous for their postcard-picture appearance from their north side, sport 3 incredible normal routes. The busiest is the route up to the middle peak, the highest of the three.
This ascent is not to be underestimated: around 500 metres long and with a couple of sections up to grade IV. Ascending will take us around 3 to 4 hours however, given the terrain complexities, the descent will take just about as much.

At the top of Great tower of Lavaredo, Dolomites

WEST PEAK of LAVAREDO and CIMA PICCOLA (Small Summit)

The two sisters at the side of the Great Peak are definitely less trodden than the first one. For this reason, their ascent is thoroughly recommended, the west Peak especially. Its height is only a few metres lower and its normal route is almost completely comparable. The only difference is that we will rarely meet more than 2 or 3 other groups of mountaineers.
The normal route up to Cima Piccola however, despite its reduced length (just 350 metres), is a true climbing route with its non-trivial moves consistently at grade IV.

The three Lavaredo peaks

CIVETTA: a huge peak

this is one of the highest and most imposing massifs in the Dolomites. Its normal route is a via ferrata of moderate difficulty but very long, so a mountaineering experience for beginners. The alternative route to the normal route is the Alleghesi via ferrata along the long, beautiful north-west ridge. Their magic and the fact these routes aren’t overtly busy make them thoroughly recommendable. Both routes are long and with a total ascent around 1800 metres. Luckly, just under the summit, we can find Torrani mountain hut, the 2nd highest hut in the Dolomites and definitely the one with the trickiest access. They will welcome us with a hot meal and comfortable blankets. The sunrise from there will be a priceless, unforgettable show.

Mont Civetta, Dolomites

SASSOLUNGO: a long and complex route

This is the icon dominating over val Gardena, its main peak reaches 3000 metres and one of the harder normal routes in the Dolomites is right up there. Indeed, the route is almost akin to a labyrinth of rocky towers and deep, iced-over gullies. It runs through different sides of the peak and, just after a few grade III+ sections, reaches the summit ridge and thereafter the top. The route rocks up 500 metres ascent and 1500 metres total length.

Sassolungo, 5 dita, Punta Grohmann

GROHMAN POINT

an imposing peak sits just by the Sassolungo’s side. Both require a ggod mountaineering experience. The Grohman’s normal route, although technically harder than its neighbour’s, is shorter and with a reduced complexity. However, they both present the same austere environment and give out the same sense of achievement once on the top.  Total ascent 450 metres, grade IV.

Punta Anna Via Ferrata

THIRD SELLA TOWER

The three Sella towers are well known and fairly well trodden, mostly because of their compact, solid rock and short, easy approaches. The normal up to the third tower is an enjoyable route winding up like a staircase on its south-east, west and north faces. Difficulties are up to grade III with a crux around IV- for a total 190 metres length.

mountaineering experience in 5 Towers, nearby Cortina d'Ampezzo

TORRI DEL VAJOLET, STABELER TOWER.

These are some of the most trodden and photographed peaks in the Dolomites. They rise up dramatically over Re Alberto hut. This is the easiest of all normal routes, however its difficulty reaches grade IV- over a total ascent of 150 metres.

Vajolet towers, dolomites

PELMO: the God’s throne

Mount Pelmo is one of those lonely colossal peaks among the highest, together with Civetta, Marmolada and Antelao. Given its peculiar shape, it is also called ‘God’s throne’. Its normal route is pretty demanding, mostly due to its great length, but not very difficult technically, except for one section called the ‘Cat’s move’. If you choose to tackle it with a mountain guide, only good hiking skills are required, this will turn to be your first mountaineering experience. Once on top, the sense of achievement is immense.
Total ascent: 1700 metres, grade II.

Mont Pelmo, the seat of God

CRISTALLO: a demanding regular route

It rises up majestically both from its soutern side, towards Cortina d’Ampezzo, and from its northern side, where a circle of glaciers wraps around the rocky towers. Its normal route, not very busy, requires a good level of fitness, given the considerable total ascent but also a few tricky, exposed rocky sections. Total ascent: 1410 metres, grade III.

Cristallo peaks from north side

CATINACCIO

This is the Fassa Dolomites main peak, its east side being the most spectacular. Here, a 700 metres drop glistens in the morning sun over the Gardeccia. The normal route, however, ascends the opposite side (west face) to then run through the long and spectacular northern ridge up to the summit. On this experience, mountaineering difficulties are around grade III with a few metres around III+ along 350 metres total length. However, the approach from Fronza mountain hut to the Coronelle requires going through fairly extended via Ferrata Santner, taking around 2 hours to get to the base of the rocky face.

The Dolomite sky and Antelao shape on the back

Comments

Your voice

Echoo
I went with Fabrizio to Marmolada. It was a fantastic experience that I will remember for a lifetime. It was the first time I relied on an Alpine Guide. Besides being very kind and a great person, he is highly competent and helps you tackle every objective. An unforgettable experience… See you soon. Kristian
Kristian Comelli
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