New route on Sasso delle Undici, Marmolada, Dolomites: “alta infedeltà” | FreeWheeling Dolomites
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New route on Sasso delle Undici, Marmolada, Dolomites: “alta infedeltà”

This route was opened by Thomas Gianola and I on a cold early summer day. Waiting for the sun to warm up the air a bit, we decided to go ahead with the preparations, the name of the route is indeed that of the TV program that we lingered to watch in the morning. In our opinion, climbing the route is a better option than watching the program itself. We look forward to the opinion of future repeaters.

CHARACTER OF THE ROUTE:

The route takes place on beautiful limestone plaques and the choice of the line was in search for the most interesting rock. On the second pitch, we found many handlebar to protect ourselves, in the subsequent pitches, unfortunately, we did not have as much luck, so that, in order to open a logical route and with low risk for the repeaters, we added bolts to protect the most demanding passages . It is however a more mountaineering than a sporting route. It requires few cams and being able to climb 5 grade even a few meters away from the last nail.

Difficulty up to VI-, length 450 meters.

APPROACH:

Arriving at the Fedaia pass, park your car near the small dam that separates Lake Fedaia from another small lake (therefore not far from the Veneto side of the pass). Cross the dam on foot and immediately head towards the wall, walking on a steep terrain alongside the stream. To help the orientation, some red stamps painted. In 25 minutes you reach the attack, where a bolt with a yellow sling about 10 meters from the ground, shows the way.

DESCENT:

At the end of the road you will come out in a beautiful and panoramic summit, on the West side (right face upstream) you can easily see a bolt connected to a spike which is the last belay of a route called “Testosterone Andante”. From here, three vertical 50/60 meters rappels deposit on the scree at the base of the West face. Shortly skirting the wall you return to the attack and then to the car.