Sport multipitch in the Dolomites | FreeWheeling Dolomites
FreeWheeling Dolomites

dolomites-summer / climbing

Sport multipitch in the Dolomites

The number and variety of climbing routes on display in the Dolomites is probably unrivalled in the world, thanks to their 16000 km extension and the around 50 different mountain ranges that make them up. Besides many classics, we can also find routes opened with a different spirit

A modern route is generally considered to be a route opened in the last few decades whose main features are: bolted protection (or a mixture of pegs and bolts) and a climbing style mostly on slabs or open sections of wall which, rather than looking for the line progressing through the weakest point in the rock face, prefers good rock and the most enjoyable and exciting moves. This is also the reason we generally use the French sport-climbing scale to measure these routes’ grades.

Beware not to underestimate this routes, as the Dolomites always keep at the forefront this idea of climbing ‘commitment’: protections are quite spaced apart and sometimes it’s necessary to use quick, self-positioned protection like cams or nuts.

It goes without saying that the examples here cannot possibly be exhaustive. Rather, they represent an overview giving a taste of what to expect in the pursuit of these modern climbing routes.

focus

technical difficulties
solid rock

type of activity

sport climbing multipitch

level

from medium to expert

customised programme

see below

Info
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YOUR MOUNTAIN GUIDE
a list of sport multipitch

 

 

 

CRODA DA LAGO

Formin summit, King Arthur route, grade 6b, 300 metres. A pleasant route with an easy and convenient approach and fairly closely placed protection bolts.

 

 

 

SPALTI di COL BECCHEI

SPALTI di COL BECCHEI, Los Angeles route, grade 6a+, 200 metres. We can find this rock face in the vicinities of Cortina. It distinguishes itself by its unbelievable rock quality. The only downside is a long approach on a wide uphill path, which could be made more fun by doing it on an e-bike rather than our feet.
There are many routes on this wall, for instance Superponzio (6b) or Thriller (7a).

 

 

 

LITTLE LAGAZUOI

‘Horizons of Glory’ route, grade 6a, 250 metres. Great route and rock quality varying from good to excellent. Easily reached by Falzarego Pass, it ends on famous ‘Martini’s Ledge‘, site of famous epic battles during the First World War in 1916-17.

 

 

 

CIMA BOIS PYRAMID

‘The wall’ route, grade 7a, 300 metres. A great summit in the vicinities of Falzarego pass. The route is well protected and its difficulty is consistent between 6a and 6b until the last, more demanding pitch.

 

 

 

COL DEI BOS

Ada route, grade 5c, 300 metres. Easy and enjoyable route with bolt protection, particularly suited as an introduction to multi-pitch climbing.

 

 

 

CRODA DA LAGO

Marcella tower, Nikibi route, grade 6b, 350 metres. A steep approach is thoroughly repaid by the beauty of this rock and the splendid environment this tower is located in.

 

 

 

PIZ CIAVACES

‘Down with motorbikes from Passo Sella’ route, grade 7a+, 300 metres. Sunny Piz Chiavaces’s south face is one of the better known and busier walls in the Dolomites. The very rapid approach, its rock quality and easy descent are definitely its strong points. Routes here abound, whether classic or modern!

 

 

 

FIRST SELLA TOWER

Delenda Carthago route, grade 6b, 180 metres. Among the classic routes up Sella Tower group’s faces, we can find many modern ones with mixed-style protection. Delenda Carthago route is a good example: a nice alpine-style first pitch is followed by some great slabs with grades between 6a and 6b.

 

 

 

DARK SIDE OF THE MOON FACE

Indian Summer route, grade 6a+, 220 metres. Found next to Colfosco village, this interesting face offers many bolt-protected routes on excellent rock.

 

 

 

WEST WALL of PISCIADU

Gold and Coal route, grade 7a, 400 metres. The route definitely catches the climbers’ eye when traveling up Gardena pass: it runs along a smooth overhanging wall. Climbing is strenuous, rock is excellent, the route is demanding and deeply satisfying.

Prices

1 persona2 persone
monte Formin, via Re Artu360 €200 €
SPALTI DI COL BECCHEI, via Los Angeles340 €190 €
PICCOLO LAGAZUOI, via Orizzonti di gloria320 €180 €
PIRAMIDE DI CIMA BOIS, via the wall370 €230 €
COL DEI BOS, via ada340 €190 €
torrione Marcella, via Nikibi340 €190 €
via le moto dal sella, 7a+360 €200 €
PRIMA TORRE DEL SELLA, via Delenda Carthago, 6b320 €180 €
PAREE OSCURA DELLA LUNA, via Indian Summer, 6a+300 €170 €
MUR OCCIDENTALE DE PISCIADU, via Oro e Carbone400 €250 €

Prices are intended per person. A guide is needed for every two participants.

 

INCLUDED IN THE ‘GUIDE-ONLY’ PRICE

  • mountain guide, UIAGM/IFMGA certified
  • customised plan
  • technical equipment
  • Transfer from/ to hotel

 

ALL-INCLUSIVE pricing is available on request, as this is calculated based on the specific agreed plan.

INCLUDED IN THE ALL-INCLUSIVE PRICE:

  • mountain guide, UIAGM/IFMGA certified
  • customised plan
  • technical equipment
  • Transfer from/ to hotel
  • half-board hotel or hut accommodation during the activity
  • bed and breakfast accommodation the night previous to the start of the activity

NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:

  • drinks or lunches
  • any transport involving chairlifts, cable cars or taxis.