dolomites-italy-summer / climbing

Wild routes

All inclusive

Searching for wild routes in the Dolomites:

The roads climbing to the Falzarego, Giau, Pordoi and Sella mountain passes make access to many beautiful rock walls very convenient. They can be sighted and easily reached from the car. This section is for whoever wants to get off the beaten track and has the will and determination to take in longer approaches and epic, exciting descents. We will put together an adventure made up of more obscure and wild routes that haven’t seen that many repetitions. These routes aren’t worth any less than the famous ones and will often surprise us at how easy it will be to discover a new vertical world just around each corner.

focus

wild and unknown routes

type of activity

climbing classic route

required level

experienced climbers

customised programme

see below

Info a list of wild climbing routes Prices

Info

Duration

from 2 to 8 days

Customised

WHERE TO STAY

Lesser known routes can be reached from the valley below. However, overnighting in a mountain hut makes everything easier. Our customised plan can then comprise visiting and overnighting in more than one hut, depending on the total number of days and chosen destinations.

CUSTOMISED PLAN

If you are interested on this kind of climbing, first contact us: We will suggest an activity package tailored around your experience and wishes. Our climbing activities are carried out by a mountain guide within UIAGM/IFMGA certified. In Italy, this is the only certification allowing a guide to accompany clients on rock. Besides, local mountain guides most definitely sport the best knowledge and will guarantee your safety and your fun.

ROUTE LEVEL

Traditional alpine routes.
The actual plan is customised and can comprise normal routes around grade II-III up to sport climbing routes encompassing all grades.
For more detailed route descriptions, see the Regular routes, Rock climbing routes pages.

EQUIPMENT

The guide can provide all technical equipment and clothing, except climbing shoes. To find out more about what to bring, please see the relevant page.

BEST-DAYS OFFER

When booking 5 or more days with us, our guide will be available for 6 days. You can then take advantage of a ‘rest’ day, to be agreed upon at the start. This offer is particularly suited to our environment, where weather conditions aren’t always in our favour. For example, by booking 6 days, the guide will be available for 7 days total, so that we can decide together when to take a break. If you book 7 or 8 days, you can have up to 2 rest days.

ALL-INCLUSIVE DEAL

You can choose to book an activity-only package, or an all-inclusive deal. Accommodation can be arranged as hotel-only, mountain hut or a mixture of the two. More information below under ‘Prices’.

a list of wild climbing routes

PIZ DEL CORV, Opera Buffa route, grade V+/VI, 350 metres.

This route crosses a beautiful and sunny wall above Selva di Cadore. The approach takes around 1 hour and climbing is mostly on nice grey rocky slabs. Can’t get any better than this as an introduction to the slightly unknown routes.

SPIZ DI MEZZODI (North), Somavilla-Angelini route, grade V-/V+, 440 metres.

Spiz Nord’s West face is an impressive jump onto Val Pramper below. At first, it seems impossible a route can successfully overcome such a wall with only moderate difficulties. Moreover, its excellent grey rock makes it very worthwhile. Our adventure will take 2 days: on the first day we will get to Sora i Sass, a charming, old-style mountain hut among an enchanted forest. On the second day we will set off bright and early to tackle some 2 hours of exposed scrambling before being able to put on our climbing shoes and start climbing.

COL DI BOUSC, “The world imprisoned by Materialism” route, grade VI+:

This route is a splendid, wild and sustained climb on pretty much perfect limestone. This route’s approach is especially brief and the climbing interesting. Not a busy route mostly because of its very recent opening. This is most definitely due to fact that this area, the north side of Marmolada, that is, is still awaiting full discovery.

CANTONI DI PELSA

this is the final section towards the south among the rampart-like wall in the west face of Mount Civetta. A multitude of peaks, pinnacles and towers make up these ‘Cantoni’, a fascinating rocky labyrinth out of a fairy tale.

Day 1: a 2-hour hike along a convenient forest track takes us to welcoming Vazzoler mountain hut, among pines and larches. Once let go of some of the weight we are carrying, we get back on our feet for a 1 hour and 15 minute hike up to the base of Guglia Rudatis (Rudatis spire).
GUGLIA RUDATIS, south-east edge, grade IV-V, 70 metres. A wafer-thin monolith, with a daring profile like a sharp blade. Unmissable.

Day 2: PUNTA AGORDO, da Roit route, grade V-, 280 metres. Punta Agordo is a beautiful massive peak, overshadowed by the very well-known Torre Venezia just by its side, thus its popularity is not as great, but that precisely makes it for today’s ‘secret’ escapade. Climbing is on great rock and the cruxes are never too demanding. The approach as well is enjoyable, about an hour from the hut.

Day 3: TORRE DELLE MEDE, Livanos route, grade V+/VI, 250 metres. This route was first opened by legendary climbing couple Georges and Sonia Livanos. Climbing is great, on good rock and mostly on slabs. It really doesn’t deserve the lack of interest displayed by climbers so far. This climb too starts just 1 hour’s hike from the Vazzoler hut.

Here ends our unforgettable 3-day stay at the Vazzoler hut. Yet, if you don’t feel exhausted, why not stay an extra day? Or, rather, would you prefer getting back down to the valley, take a well-deserved break for a day then get back onto the hunt for another route off the beaten track?

CREP DA L’ORA, di Nicola route, grade V+, 200 metres.

Today we will get to Val Badia, well known and thus very busy, however we’ll look for a precious hidden gem: Crep de l’Ora. This is an isolated monolith among the scree slopes of a Vallone di Antersass, a pretty wild valley. The long approach to this route is made easier by an e-bike. Once at the base of the monolith, we can start our climb on great rock along an obvious dihedral up to the awesome summit.

MARGHERITA TOWER, Lorenzi and Maranelli route, grade V, 110 metres.

This beautiful tower, located among a great landscape of pastures and high peaks, is reached in around 45 minutes from Val Parola mountain hut. The climbing along the edge is enjoyable, culminating in its sharp summit.

FIRENZE TOWER, route ‘de chei de la dlaite’, grade VI, 300 metres.

A lesser-known wild route on a great summit. From Selva di Val Gardena we start the hike to Firenze mountain hut. From there, a pleasant hike along pastures and rocks will take us to the route start. Climbing is on slabs and along dihedrals and rock is always great.