Wild routes

SPIZ DI MEZZODI (North), Somavilla-Angelini route, grade V-/V+, 440 metres.

Spiz Nord’s West face is an impressive jump onto Val Pramper below. At first, it seems impossible a route can successfully overcome such a wall with only moderate difficulties. Moreover, its excellent grey rock makes it very worthwhile. Our adventure will take 2 days: on the first day we will get to Sora i Sass, a charming, old-style mountain hut among an enchanted forest. On the second day we will set off bright and early to tackle some 2 hours of exposed scrambling before being able to put on our climbing shoes and start climbing.

COL DI BOUSC, “The world imprisoned by Materialism” route, grade VI+:

This route is a splendid, wild and sustained climb on pretty much perfect limestone. This route’s approach is especially brief and the climbing interesting. Not a busy route mostly because of its very recent opening. This is most definitely due to fact that this area, the north side of Marmolada, that is, is still awaiting full discovery.

CANTONI DI PELSA

this is the final section towards the south among the rampart-like wall in the west face of Mount Civetta. A multitude of peaks, pinnacles and towers make up these ‘Cantoni’, a fascinating rocky labyrinth out of a fairy tale.

Day 1: a 2-hour hike along a convenient forest track takes us to welcoming Vazzoler mountain hut, among pines and larches. Once let go of some of the weight we are carrying, we get back on our feet for a 1 hour and 15 minute hike up to the base of Guglia Rudatis (Rudatis spire).
GUGLIA RUDATIS, south-east edge, grade IV-V, 70 metres. A wafer-thin monolith, with a daring profile like a sharp blade. Unmissable.

Day 2: PUNTA AGORDO, da Roit route, grade V-, 280 metres. Punta Agordo is a beautiful massive peak, overshadowed by the very well-known Torre Venezia just by its side, thus its popularity is not as great, but that precisely makes it for today’s ‘secret’ escapade. Climbing is on great rock and the cruxes are never too demanding. The approach as well is enjoyable, about an hour from the hut.

Day 3: TORRE DELLE MEDE, Livanos route, grade V+/VI, 250 metres. This route was first opened by legendary climbing couple Georges and Sonia Livanos. Climbing is great, on good rock and mostly on slabs. It really doesn’t deserve the lack of interest displayed by climbers so far. This climb too starts just 1 hour’s hike from the Vazzoler hut.

Here ends our unforgettable 3-day stay at the Vazzoler hut. Yet, if you don’t feel exhausted, why not stay an extra day? Or, rather, would you prefer getting back down to the valley, take a well-deserved break for a day then get back onto the hunt for another route off the beaten track?

CREP DA L’ORA, di Nicola route, grade V+, 200 metres.

Today we will get to Val Badia, well known and thus very busy, however we’ll look for a precious hidden gem: Crep de l’Ora. This is an isolated monolith among the scree slopes of a Vallone di Antersass, a pretty wild valley. The long approach to this route is made easier by an e-bike. Once at the base of the monolith, we can start our climb on great rock along an obvious dihedral up to the awesome summit.

MARGHERITA TOWER, Lorenzi and Maranelli route, grade V, 110 metres.

This beautiful tower, located among a great landscape of pastures and high peaks, is reached in around 45 minutes from Val Parola mountain hut. The climbing along the edge is enjoyable, culminating in its sharp summit.

FIRENZE TOWER, route ‘de chei de la dlaite’, grade VI, 300 metres.

A lesser-known wild route on a great summit. From Selva di Val Gardena we start the hike to Firenze mountain hut. From there, a pleasant hike along pastures and rocks will take us to the route start. Climbing is on slabs and along dihedrals and rock is always great.