CAMPANILE DI VAL MONTANAIA (Val Montanaia’s Bell Tower)

this isolated monolith is perhaps the most characteristic symbol of the wild Friulian Dolomites. Every one of its 4 sides is a vertical or overhanging wall. The first ascent’s history is not just about strength, courage and determination, but also trickery and scam. Worth listening to, perhaps on the cosy summit plateau.

NORMAL ROUTE, grade V-, 290 metres. An amusing multipitch on excellent rock. Unfortunately, nowadays the crux is a little worn and greasy therefore quite demanding. The route starts on the southern face and climbs up like a winding staircase, ending up on the northerns side. The descend is pretty exciting too, with its long abseil into the void.

CINQUE DITA (Five Fingers)

The legend talks about a giant defeated and buried by its enemies that, just before exhaling the last breath and turn itself into stone, managed to lift its hand above the ground, thus giving birth to “The Five Fingers”

POLLICE (Thumb) route, grade IV, 250 metres. This route is not just about the ease of access, but also the unrivaled exposure: it climbs up right on the edge line, always on good holds and with incredible scenery.

MEDIO (Middle finger) route, grade III+, 300 metres. The “Middle finger” is the higher point among the 5 fingers. Once on the thumb, it’s possible to descend by abseiling and climb up this route’s last few pitches. Once on the summit, we can choose to get down or carry on with the whole 5 finger traverse.

CIMA DELLA MADONNA (Madonna’s peak)

The Pale di S. Martino are a dolomitic group well known for its lunar plateau between the heights of 2500 and 2800 metres. According to some research, it was the inspiration for Dino Buzzati’s book “The Tartar Steppe“. What matters to us here is the exceptional rock quality, the breathtaking landscapes and the cozyness and warmth of the mountain hut.

SPIGOLO DEL VELO (Veil’s Edge), grade IV+, 430 metres. One of the most well known multi-pitch classic routes that many aspire to. Its conquest involves a long approach up to the hut the day before, a long and superb climb and a never trivial descent.

LASTOI di FORMIN

these are a wide rampart-like edge towering over the hairpin bends of the road winding its way from Cortina d’Ampezzo up to Passo Giau. The impressive west face turns towards the south, leaving shorter and more feasible routes in its tracks, with views over the green alpine pastures beneath.

BASTIONE DE MONDEVAL, Placca Nera route (Black Slab), grade III-IV, 180 metres. Around the bottom of this rampart, some neolithic tombs were discovered. It’s incredible to think these places were already known and favourited by our ancestors. The multipitch route is enjoyable and not very sustained, and takes around 2 to 3 hours. The 1 hour and 20 minute approach is pleasant, whilst the descent takes around 1 hour.

CADINI DI MISURINA

this is a mountain group to the north of Cortina d’Ampezzo. They are clearly visible from the parking place by Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Their most defining characteristic is a tangle of rising towers and deep gullies. This environment is quintessentially Dolomitic.
Despite this, there are plenty of short and medium-graded routes. Two charming huts are found just a few steps from the peaks: Fonda Savio and Città di Carpi. They make it ideal for a few days of intense climbing.

TORRE WUNDT (Wundt Tower), Mazzorana/Del Torso route, grade IV, 200 metres. A multi pitch on excellent rock up to a wonderful tower, not far from Fonda Savio hut.

CAMPANILE DULFER (Dulfer’s bell tower), south edge, grade IV with a short V- step, 300 metres. One of the most popular routes among the climbs starting from Città di Carpi hut, and rightly so. Its main strong points are the very good rock, the nice exposure, the bell tower’s daring shape and the dizzy abseiling to descend.

PUNTA COL DE VARDA, grade III-IV, 230 metres. The peak from which the hut underneath takes its name. Its very elegant and slender shape is tackled by this route on excellent rock. The initial approach is aided by the chairlift, bringing it down to 50 minutes. The multipitch takes around 3 hours, with an extra hour for the descent.

LAGAZUOI

This peak sits right above Falzarego pass and is well known for its famous battles and explosions happened during the First World War in 1916-17. Its location is very convenient given the short approaches and the easy descent, which can be done easily by cable car.

IL TRAPEZIO, Giordano route, grade IV-, 180 metres. This nice short route is easily reached with a 30 minute hike. The route stops by the Martini ledge and requires an abseil and another 30 minute hike in order to get down.

PICCOLO LAGAZUOI, via del Buco (Hole route), grade IV, 250 metres. A classic route on excellent rock with two interesting variants. Right at the end, we’ll be surrounded by history, with the remains of the First Wold War, fought more than 100 years ago right in the Dolomites.

NUVOLAU

one of the most visited Dolomites summits. Its main attraction is the Nuvolau mountain hut, right on the summit, with its 360 degree view. Luckily, we will escape the crowds until we reach the top. Its more vertical side ain’t touristy at all!

CRODA NEGRA, Gianleo route, grade IV, 180 metres. After a half-hour approach we will get to the bottom of this route. 2 hours of enjoyable multipitch climbing will take us to the summit, thus the well-deserved beer among the breathtaking panorama.

SPIZ DI MEZZODI (North), Somavilla-Angelini route, grade V-/V+, 440 metres.

Spiz Nord’s West face is an impressive jump onto Val Pramper below. At first, it seems impossible a route can successfully overcome such a wall with only moderate difficulties. Moreover, its excellent grey rock makes it very worthwhile. Our adventure will take 2 days: on the first day we will get to Sora i Sass, a charming, old-style mountain hut among an enchanted forest. On the second day we will set off bright and early to tackle some 2 hours of exposed scrambling before being able to put on our climbing shoes and start climbing.

COL DI BOUSC, “The world imprisoned by Materialism” route, grade VI+:

This route is a splendid, wild and sustained climb on pretty much perfect limestone. This route’s approach is especially brief and the climbing interesting. Not a busy route mostly because of its very recent opening. This is most definitely due to fact that this area, the north side of Marmolada, that is, is still awaiting full discovery.

CANTONI DI PELSA

this is the final section towards the south among the rampart-like wall in the west face of Mount Civetta. A multitude of peaks, pinnacles and towers make up these ‘Cantoni’, a fascinating rocky labyrinth out of a fairy tale.

Day 1: a 2-hour hike along a convenient forest track takes us to welcoming Vazzoler mountain hut, among pines and larches. Once let go of some of the weight we are carrying, we get back on our feet for a 1 hour and 15 minute hike up to the base of Guglia Rudatis (Rudatis spire).
GUGLIA RUDATIS, south-east edge, grade IV-V, 70 metres. A wafer-thin monolith, with a daring profile like a sharp blade. Unmissable.

Day 2: PUNTA AGORDO, da Roit route, grade V-, 280 metres. Punta Agordo is a beautiful massive peak, overshadowed by the very well-known Torre Venezia just by its side, thus its popularity is not as great, but that precisely makes it for today’s ‘secret’ escapade. Climbing is on great rock and the cruxes are never too demanding. The approach as well is enjoyable, about an hour from the hut.

Day 3: TORRE DELLE MEDE, Livanos route, grade V+/VI, 250 metres. This route was first opened by legendary climbing couple Georges and Sonia Livanos. Climbing is great, on good rock and mostly on slabs. It really doesn’t deserve the lack of interest displayed by climbers so far. This climb too starts just 1 hour’s hike from the Vazzoler hut.

Here ends our unforgettable 3-day stay at the Vazzoler hut. Yet, if you don’t feel exhausted, why not stay an extra day? Or, rather, would you prefer getting back down to the valley, take a well-deserved break for a day then get back onto the hunt for another route off the beaten track?

CREP DA L’ORA, di Nicola route, grade V+, 200 metres.

Today we will get to Val Badia, well known and thus very busy, however we’ll look for a precious hidden gem: Crep de l’Ora. This is an isolated monolith among the scree slopes of a Vallone di Antersass, a pretty wild valley. The long approach to this route is made easier by an e-bike. Once at the base of the monolith, we can start our climb on great rock along an obvious dihedral up to the awesome summit.

MARGHERITA TOWER, Lorenzi and Maranelli route, grade V, 110 metres.

This beautiful tower, located among a great landscape of pastures and high peaks, is reached in around 45 minutes from Val Parola mountain hut. The climbing along the edge is enjoyable, culminating in its sharp summit.

FIRENZE TOWER, route ‘de chei de la dlaite’, grade VI, 300 metres.

A lesser-known wild route on a great summit. From Selva di Val Gardena we start the hike to Firenze mountain hut. From there, a pleasant hike along pastures and rocks will take us to the route start. Climbing is on slabs and along dihedrals and rock is always great.

GRAN VERNEL: a complete mountaineering experience

If Marmolada is known as the Queen of the Dolomites and the Antelao as is its King, Gran Vernel should at least be the Prince, not only because of its height but also its elegant appearance from every side. Its normal route isn’t very busy and represents a true adventure, made up of great effort, tricky sections on rock that can be a little ugly at times and a very exposed final ridge up to the summit. Total ascent: 1140 metres, grade III+.

GREAT PEAK of LAVAREDO: the dolomites’ icon

Probably the most coveted among the Dolomites normal routes. The Three Peaks of Lavaredo, famous for their postcard-picture appearance from their north side, sport 3 incredible normal routes. The busiest is the route up to the middle peak, the highest of the three.
This ascent is not to be underestimated: around 500 metres long and with a couple of sections up to grade IV. Ascending will take us around 3 to 4 hours however, given the terrain complexities, the descent will take just about as much.

WEST PEAK of LAVAREDO and CIMA PICCOLA (Small Summit)

The two sisters at the side of the Great Peak are definitely less trodden than the first one. For this reason, their ascent is thoroughly recommended, the west Peak especially. Its height is only a few metres lower and its normal route is almost completely comparable. The only difference is that we will rarely meet more than 2 or 3 other groups of mountaineers.
The normal route up to Cima Piccola however, despite its reduced length (just 350 metres), is a true climbing route with its non-trivial moves consistently at grade IV.

CIVETTA: a huge peak

this is one of the highest and most imposing massifs in the Dolomites. Its normal route is a via ferrata of moderate difficulty but very long, so a mountaineering experience for beginners. The alternative route to the normal route is the Alleghesi via ferrata along the long, beautiful north-west ridge. Their magic and the fact these routes aren’t overtly busy make them thoroughly recommendable. Both routes are long and with a total ascent around 1800 metres. Luckly, just under the summit, we can find Torrani mountain hut, the 2nd highest hut in the Dolomites and definitely the one with the trickiest access. They will welcome us with a hot meal and comfortable blankets. The sunrise from there will be a priceless, unforgettable show.

SASSOLUNGO: a long and complex route

This is the icon dominating over val Gardena, its main peak reaches 3000 metres and one of the harder normal routes in the Dolomites is right up there. Indeed, the route is almost akin to a labyrinth of rocky towers and deep, iced-over gullies. It runs through different sides of the peak and, just after a few grade III+ sections, reaches the summit ridge and thereafter the top. The route rocks up 500 metres ascent and 1500 metres total length.

GROHMAN POINT

an imposing peak sits just by the Sassolungo’s side. Both require a ggod mountaineering experience. The Grohman’s normal route, although technically harder than its neighbour’s, is shorter and with a reduced complexity. However, they both present the same austere environment and give out the same sense of achievement once on the top.  Total ascent 450 metres, grade IV.

THIRD SELLA TOWER

The three Sella towers are well known and fairly well trodden, mostly because of their compact, solid rock and short, easy approaches. The normal up to the third tower is an enjoyable route winding up like a staircase on its south-east, west and north faces. Difficulties are up to grade III with a crux around IV- for a total 190 metres length.

TORRI DEL VAJOLET, STABELER TOWER.

These are some of the most trodden and photographed peaks in the Dolomites. They rise up dramatically over Re Alberto hut. This is the easiest of all normal routes, however its difficulty reaches grade IV- over a total ascent of 150 metres.

PELMO: the God’s throne

Mount Pelmo is one of those lonely colossal peaks among the highest, together with Civetta, Marmolada and Antelao. Given its peculiar shape, it is also called ‘God’s throne’. Its normal route is pretty demanding, mostly due to its great length, but not very difficult technically, except for one section called the ‘Cat’s move’. If you choose to tackle it with a mountain guide, only good hiking skills are required, this will turn to be your first mountaineering experience. Once on top, the sense of achievement is immense.
Total ascent: 1700 metres, grade II.

CRISTALLO: a demanding regular route

It rises up majestically both from its soutern side, towards Cortina d’Ampezzo, and from its northern side, where a circle of glaciers wraps around the rocky towers. Its normal route, not very busy, requires a good level of fitness, given the considerable total ascent but also a few tricky, exposed rocky sections. Total ascent: 1410 metres, grade III.

CATINACCIO

This is the Fassa Dolomites main peak, its east side being the most spectacular. Here, a 700 metres drop glistens in the morning sun over the Gardeccia. The normal route, however, ascends the opposite side (west face) to then run through the long and spectacular northern ridge up to the summit. On this experience, mountaineering difficulties are around grade III with a few metres around III+ along 350 metres total length. However, the approach from Fronza mountain hut to the Coronelle requires going through fairly extended via Ferrata Santner, taking around 2 hours to get to the base of the rocky face.

SPALTI di COL BECCHEI

SPALTI di COL BECCHEI, Los Angeles route, grade 6a+, 200 metres. We can find this rock face in the vicinities of Cortina. It distinguishes itself by its unbelievable rock quality. The only downside is a long approach on a wide uphill path, which could be made more fun by doing it on an e-bike rather than our feet.
There are many routes on this wall, for instance Superponzio (6b) or Thriller (7a).

LITTLE LAGAZUOI

‘Horizons of Glory’ route, grade 6a, 250 metres. Great route and rock quality varying from good to excellent. Easily reached by Falzarego Pass, it ends on famous ‘Martini’s Ledge‘, site of famous epic battles during the First World War in 1916-17.

CIMA BOIS PYRAMID

‘The wall’ route, grade 7a, 300 metres. A great summit in the vicinities of Falzarego pass. The route is well protected and its sport climbing difficulty is consistent between 6a and 6b until the last, more demanding pitch.

COL DEI BOS

Ada route, grade 5c, 300 metres. Easy and enjoyable route with bolt protection, particularly suited as an introduction to multi-pitch climbing.

CRODA DA LAGO

Marcella tower, Nikibi route, grade 6b, 350 metres. A steep approach is thoroughly repaid by the beauty of this rock and the splendid environment this tower is located in.

PIZ CIAVACES

‘Down with motorbikes from Passo Sella’ route, grade 7a+, 300 metres. Sunny Piz Chiavaces’s south face is the quintessence of sport climbing in the Dolomites, in fact is one of the most known and busiest walls in the Dolomites. The very rapid approach, its rock quality and easy descent are definitely its strong points. Routes here abound, whether classic or modern!

FIRST SELLA TOWER

Delenda Carthago route, grade 6b, 180 metres. Among the classic routes up Sella Tower group’s faces, we can find many modern ones with mixed-style protection. Delenda Carthago route is a good example: a nice alpine-style first pitch is followed by some great slabs with grades between 6a and 6b.

DARK SIDE OF THE MOON FACE

Indian Summer route, grade 6a+, 220 metres. Found next to Colfosco village, this interesting face offers many bolt-protected routes on excellent rock.

WEST WALL of PISCIADU

Gold and Coal route, grade 7a, 400 metres. The route definitely catches the climbers’ eye when traveling up Gardena pass: it runs along a smooth overhanging wall. Climbing is strenuous, rock is excellent, the sport multipitch is demanding and deeply satisfying.

DAY 1: ZEBRA SLABS

after the obligatory cappuccino and croissant in Arco’s main square, we will start our first day with a pretty sport route on the famouse Zebra Slabs. The name comes from its evident black and white stripes. Here climbing is mostly along slabs and a wide variety of grades can be found next to each other.

TRENTO ROUTE, grade 5a, 180 metres: a pretty introductory route, two nice pitches on slabs, smearing-style.
OLOCAUSTO ROUTE, grade 7a, 200 metres: some of the hardest pitches on this wall, extreme smearing!

DAY 2: MONTE CASALE

now that we’re all settled with those fitted slabs, let’s move slightly north. Monte Casale is waiting for us, with its 400 meters wall on display, presenting a markedly Alpine style, in its climbing and protection.

MISSILE route, grade V+/VI, 400 meters: excellent rock and exemplary line make this climb very satisfying.
SE LA CONOSCI LA EVITI (“once you know it, you’ll steer clear of it”), grade VII+/ AO, 400 meters: an alpine route offering excellent climbing, among the most interesting in the valley.

DAY 3: MANDREA

today we will go for a shorter itinerary and head for Mandrea. It looks like a long, complex and convoluted rocky barrier. The rock, the nature and the peaceful environment make it for one of the valley’s most special corners.

BLACK HOLE, grade VI, 250 metres: a classic-style Lake Garda climbing along cracks and dihedrals, its environment giving away some great satisfaction

DAY 4: PICCOLO DAIN

a sunny, attractive wall right above the village of Sarche. The icing on the cake that is our stay in Lake Garda! Climbing routes:

MAESTRI DIHEDRAL, grade VI+ AO, 400 metres. Cesare Maestri’s masterpiece, the great climber from Trento. A spectacular route travelling through the dihedral visible from the road.
VIA IL RAZZISMO DAL MONDO (GET RACISM OUT OF THE WORLD), grade V+, 200 metres: an extremely logical route, all along it follows a crack starting from the dam below and cutting through the entire face. Rock quality is always good or excellent.

DAY 1: San Marco

Campanile di San Marco (San Marcos’ bell tower)– “DELLA LUCIA” route, 6 pitches, 180 metres, grade V
An amazing route on hold- and hourglass-rich rock, in some of Agner’s most magic environments. Thoroughly recommended, also because it’s one of the few rocky towers around here. Beware of the definitely non-trivial approach, with some grade I sections on grass and rock, and the descent, almost all by abseiling.

Piombi dei Lastei – ADELE GNECH route, 5 pitches, 250 metres, grade VI
A cute climb, half an hour from the hut, on rock varying from discrete to nice. Even if demanding, the crux pitch is also very enjoyable. Comfortable descent with 2 abseils.

DAY 2: Becco d’Aquila

Becco d’Aquila (Eagle’s beak) – “DE COL Edge”, 9 pitches, 450 metres, grade VI
A nice route on the Beak’s edge, rock always solid and well protected.
This is the longest and most classic route among our suggestions, recommended for people with already some alpine experience especially as far as route finding is concerned, as it is not always obvious.
Comfortable descent with a few abseils along the south-west face to reconnect on the Agner’s normal route.

Punta del Nevaio – “SOGNO FATALE” (Fatal Dream), 7 pitches, 350 metres, grade IV+
Its difficulties easy to overcome, its convenient approach and its well protected belays make this a route recommended for beginners and whoever would want to improve their abseil descent technique. Rock is always great and protection easy.

DAY 3: Cima della Beta

CIMA DELLA BETA (2723 metres), 700 metres ascent, grade III, 3 hours
A climb for the wild, off the beaten track, normal route enthusiasts! It is never trivial and requires a certain alpine fitness and intuition: it goes along some grassy ledges, rocky steps and gullies that are not always easy to find. Great scenery from the top towards the Pale di San Martino plateau and northern Dolomites.

SASS DE LE CAORE (2708 metres), 700 metres ascent, grade II+, 3 hours
A wonderful normal route up to some of the Agner’s sub-peaks. Calling it a sub-peak doesn’t do it justice. This climb is much more demanding than the Giant, given its exposure, the non-trivial rocky cruxes and the route finding. Its grassy ledges full of Alpine star flowers, the hidden little caverns, the rocky depressions at the higher altitudes, a few chamois and great views towards the southern Veneto plain make this a thoroughly recommended route!

DAY 4: Pizzetti

Pizzetti – several routes, 200 metres, between grade III and V
The Pizzetti are the rocky features hosting some of the Agner’s massif easiest climbing routes, up to 6 pitches and grade V. These present alternating rocky sections with good holds on solid rock and grassy terraces allowing for comfortable and convenient belays. Descent by abseiling along the normal routes.

CIVETTA, NORTH-WEST FACE

A glorious 1000 metres high and 4 km long face. Its peculiarity is a hanging glacier at altitudes between 2650 and 2800 metres. This is a very quintessential north-face environment. The mornings are bitter and cold; when the sun comes out to warm our skin up it means we haven’t got much daylight hours left! Rock quality varies between the absolutely terrible and the incredibly amazing.

CIVETTA, Solleder/Lettenbauer route, 1000 metres high, grade VI.

This route made history as the first grade VI route. In G. Buscaini’s words: “a great classic, where technical difficulties are to be found alongside an austere environment”.

PUNTA TISSI, Philipp-Flamm dihedral, 800 metres, grade V+/VI.

Strenuous climb along cracks and chimneys, generally tackled between July and August once ice in the deepest chimneys has melted.

PUNTA CIVETTA, Faé/Andrich route, 750 metres + 350 metres buttress, grade V+/VI.

A free-climbing masterpiece, mostly alongside dihedrals and chimneys.

TOFANA DI ROZES, SOUTH FACE

a great, complex face towering over Cortina d’Ampezzo valley. Its distinctive characteristic is a total big wall climbing reaching 800 metres below the main summit, with shorter pillars around like castle walls. The climbing is along great quality Dolomia rock, which is also responsible for its distinctive reddish colour.

TOFANA DI ROZES, Eotvos-Dimai route, 800 metres, grade IV+.

Classic route in a spectacular environment, right in the middle of the south face. Despite its moderate grade, its length nevertheless requires a good level of fitness.

SECOND PILLAR, Costantini-Apollonio route, 550 metres, grade VI+-A1.

A long crack runs the face centre, the line tackled by this incredible route, whose distinctive features are two pronounced roofs, easily overcome with aids, and an overhanging chimney called “mule’s back”.

MONTE AGNER, NORTH FACE

Incredibly high rock faces rise up from the bottom of wild and mysterious San Lucano valley. The Agner’s pyramid stands tall above the faces of the pale di San Lucano and everything else around it: an incredible, 1600 metres high jump in the void. The north face sports several routes, many of them rather extreme except for the North edge. Its shape is the most elegant however its climb is of moderate difficulty.

NORTH EDGE, Gilberti-Soravito route, 1600 metres high, grade V+/VI.

This route starts with extended vertical sections, broken by short linking hikes along mountain pines. Once past the halfway point, this route becomes more and more exposed, more and more beautiful and challenging. Climbing this route is setting ourselves along a long, vertical journey. An overnight bivouac is the ultimate gift of an unforgettable adventure.

TORRE TRIESTE, SOUTH FACE

“Devastatingly beautiful, higher than any other in its perfection and the power of its architecture. It truly deserves to be named The Tower of Towers” (D. Rudatis). The tower rises isolated from the surrounding peaks, powerful and slender. All the big wall routes climbing Torre Trieste require considerable efforts given their length and the complex descent. The south-face is the most impressive, its face shown to whoever looks up from the valley below.

SOUTH-EAST EDGE, Cassin-Ratti route, 600 metres, grade VI+ and A0/A1.

Great classic route by one of the greatest alpinists in history: Riccardo Cassin. The route climbs up along a line reaching for the weakest points of this edge. The first section is along brittle rock, nowadays fairly clean, the second section climbing starts to get exciting along cracks and dihedrals.

SOUTH FACE, Carlesso-Sandri route, 600 metres, grade VI+/A0.

This was the first route successfully tackling and conquering the south face, an incredible feat in its times. It is still many a climber’s dream to this day. The brittle rock has been cleaned up these days, the hardest sections sport some excellent rock.

SPIZ DI LAGUNAZ, WEST FACE

Mysterious and remote, San Lucano valley is surrounded by some of the highest and most imposing cliffs throughout the Alps. Spiz di Lagunaz towers high among them. Casarotto dihedral is the absolute gem in its west face.

WEST FACE, Casarotto-Radin dihedral, 1350 metres, grade VII/A1.

This route is set in an environment among some of the most isolated and fascinating in the Dolomites. Reaching the start of the big wall climbing is already a fairly demanding hike from the base. The route then follows excellent rock, with the trickiest sections just before entering the real dihedral. Once on the summit, it’s not over yet: a long and complex descent is on the cards.

ROCCHETTA ALTA DI BOSCONERO

This peak is found in a slightly hidden, lesser-known corner of the Dolomites. Indeed, the first completion of a climbing route here only dates back to 1964 by climbers from Cortina. Since then, many climbers followed along the many folds of this majestic mountain, never quite getting enough of the beauty of this rock but also the calm peace to be found around the Bosconero refuge.

NORTH-WEST EDGE, Strobel route, 750 metres, grade VII+/A0.

The route runs along the impressive North-west edge, criss-crossing whilst looking for the cracks and dihedrals allowing to get past it. Rock quality is consistenly good to excellent.

NORTH FACE, Navasa route, 750 metres, grade VI+/A0.

According to many of the ones who repeated it, this is the Rocchetta’s greatest route. The rock is solid, its richness in holds is impressive and for this reason, many of its roofs can be tackled just by free-climbing.

THREE PEAKS OF LAVAREDO, NORTH FACES

The great north faces of the Three Peaks of Lavaredo are probably the most photographed and dreamed of moutnains in the world. The constant exposure and sense of void makes them unique among the great Dolomites  big walls. Climbing here is always demanding and doesn’t allow for any respite. Once on top, the sense of achievement is fathomless.

CIMA GRANDE (GREAT PEAK) OF LAVAREDO, Comici-Dimai route, 550 metres, grade VI+/A0.

A classic, the abundant pegs ease off the climb, but the exposure is constant and unbelievable.

WEST PEAK OF LAVAREDO, Cassin-Ratti route, 450 metres, grade VI+/A0.

Whilst the Great Peak’s north face is a yellow overhanging blackboard, the west face’s distinguishes itself by its imposing roofs in the lower half, and some grey vertical rock in the upper half. The route manages to cut through these overhangs with a long 2-pitch traverse, through which the incredulous climber will be taken to the summit.

PIZ CHIAVACEZ

Chiavacez’s south face is one of the most popular in the Dolomites for multi pitch classic and sports routes: right by the road, it offers many enjoyable climbing routes on solid rock. Its only downside can be the queues on the route starts. Half-way, the cliff is cut by a ledge. Routes starting from the base end up on the ledge, whilst routes leading to the summit start from the ledge.

SHOUBERT, grade VI-, 250 metres. Elegant route sporting some athletic climbing on cracks and slabs.
VINATZER DIEHDRAL, grade V+ A0, 220 metres. This is one of the routes starting from the halfway ledge, a wonderful one among chimneys and cracks.

CIMA SCOTONI

Perhaps located right in one of the most charming corners of the Dolomites, it looks like a smooth rocky blackboard broken by two ledges. From the top our view spans from Val Badia underneath to the Dolomites’ giants of the likes of Antelao, Pelmo, Marmolada and Civetta.

FACHIRI ROUTE, grade VI, 400 metres. This is one of champion Enzo Cozzolino‘s masterpieces. As opposed to the first route on the cliff (Lacedelli route), this one sports a slightly more consistent and homogeneous grade on surprisingly solid rock.

THREE PEAKS of LAVAREDO

These peaks’ charm, an icon among Sesto’s Dolomites, attracts not just those who dream in climbing its multi-pitches, but also many tourists crowding the paths around the base, thanks to convenient road access. Despite the crowds and rock quality not always the best, their profile and the elegance of their classic routes and big walls routes, is like a magnet for the climbers.

DIBONA’s corner, Great Peak of Lavaredo, grade IV, 550 metres. The north-east edge of the great peak is the one starting from the scree slopes at the base of those epic north faces and leading all the way up to the summit cross. Climbing is never too strenuous and the views over the north face are just wonderful.

YELLOW corner, Small Peak of Lavaredo, grade VI-, 300 metres. This is another classic that any climber would want in its logbook. The route follows a daring edge line, looking for a passage to the summit among yellow overhanging rocks and roofs.

PIZ DA LECH

Thanks to a convenient chairlift from Corvara in Badia we will get to the base of Sella massif, at a small basin whose surrounding cliffs can make a climber feel small and a little scared perhaps.
Sas deles Diesc and Sas deles Nu, Piz da Lech south-eastern cliffs , offer excellent rock quality, a high-altitude experience and the convenience of a very short approach.

DORIGATTI, GAMBISI route, Piz da Lech south-eastern cliff, grade V+, 270 metres:. The black and yellow wall of Piz da Lech will catch our eye as soon as we get off the chairlift.
This route manages to overcome the impressive cliff by means of chimneys, cracks and slabs. There’s nothing missing here!

CASTIGLIONI, DETASSIS route, Sas deles Diesc, grade V, 350 metres: The anfitheatre-like wall carries on to the left-hand side with Sas de les Diesc. This suggested route is mostly along chimneys leading to the summit of this cute peak, with grades around IV and a pitch at V.
AERO FOBIA route, Sas deles Nu, grade VI+, 280 metres: The impressive cliff of Sas Deles Nu, completing the anfitheatre, rises up from the impressive rocky gap visible from down below. This is a fairly demanding route which first overcomes some serious overhangs then, once past the edge, carries on along some magnificient slabs.

SAS DELA CRUSC

This summit’s west cliff impressive size dominates Val Badia. Sunset paints a fascinating red shade, enchanting onlookers from down below and, moreover, whoever is still struggling on the rocks. Climbers first get a comfortable lift to a medieval monastery thanks to the chairlifts. Then, they leave the gentle pastures to tackle a rocky foot with stones and gravel. Once at the base, here is where some of the nicest and most demanding routes in the Dolomites start.

MAYERL DIHEDRAL, sas dela Crusc west cliff, grade VI+, 300+ 250 metres: Despite the overall higher grade, this is the line tackling the cliff’s weakest point. The route takes us through some demanding climbing rarely below grade V. Rock is magnificient.

TOFANA DI ROZES, SOUTH FACE

this is a great and convoluted cliff dominating over Cortina d’Ampezzo valley. Its main feature is a 800 metre maximum vertical ascent on the vertical line falling from the main summit and lower height pillars that resemble the walls of a huge castle. Climbing is on excellent Dolomia rock; this rock is also responsible for its typical reddish colour.

ALVERA-POMPANIN route, Tofana’s first corner, grade V+, 430 metres: This classic route is almost always along the edge line, its climbing aerial and satisfying despite the grade always being between IV and V and just one nice dihedral pitch at V+.

COSTANTINI-GHEDINA route, Tofana second corner, grade VI-, 600 metres:. Tofana’s second and central pillar is the highest and presents the hardest routes. This route is a very coveted classic. Rock is always excellent, first on some nice grey slabs then, after a tricky travers which is also the hardest pitch, runs along the edge line until the summit.

SELLA TOWERS

these are some of the most iconic Dolomite peaks. What makes them so well known is not just their extraordinary beauty, but also their proximity to the Sella pass road, definitely making the climber’s job easier. A scenic summit and a variety of great routes are the common characteristic of each of the four towers.

MESSNER route, Second Tower, grade V+, 240 metres: A masterpiece by the great South Tyrolese champion. At the time, such a sustained route on open slabs was almost madness; nowadays is a demanding, wonderful test.
VINATZER route, Third tower, grade VI-, 350 metres: this is an elegant route on excellent rock. It tackles vertical west face through a roof sticking out of the rock more than 2 metres. A real Dolomitic gem!
MALSINER-MORODER route, fourth tower, grade VI+, 345 metres:. Fourth tower’s north face is made up of great niches, edges and cracks. Thus, this route is pretty varied and convoluted and rock quality is not always excellent. The crux pitch is a demanding overhanging wall.

MEISULES DALA BIESCES

This wall is the northern buttress to the Sella massif. This not a proper summit, rather a series of rocky ramparts ending up at a large ledge. Even if the multi-pitches routes around here do not lead to a summit, the strong points on climbing those, are the excellent rock and the convenient approach just from the road.

BRUSIN route, Meisules east tower, grade VI+, 200 metres: this route involves 6 demanding pitches that, whilst wearing out our arms, will put a smile on our faces.

SIEGLINDE route, Meisules, grade V, 200 metres: this route runs along an elegant edge, with splendid crack climbing mostly at grade IV with a few sections at grade V.

FRANZ route, Meisules, grade VI+, 300 metres:. Perhaps the greatest classic on this face, it’s definitely a demanding climb requiring a good 4 to 5 effortful hours on excellent rock and great slabs.

L’NEIN route, Meisules, grade V+, 280 metres: This is one of those thoroughly satisfying and enthusing routes: it’s not the strength that matters here, but smartness and a clever foot dance.

CATINACCIO

This is the most famous group in Fassa valley. Its characteristic eastern face and its pink shade in the morning light smiles over the pastures down by the Gardeccia. Catinaccio is made up of several peaks, all of them offer solid rock and great climbing.

STEGER route, Punta Emma, grade V+, 400 metres: this is Punta Emma’s classic. Here the challenge is not so much the technical difficulty but rather its length. Its spectacular summit provides a special viewpoint on famous Torri del Vaiolet (Vaiolet’s Towers) group.

EISENSTECKEN route, Punta Emma, grade VI, 220 metres:. The relatively short north face offers a masterpiece route: a vertical wall requiring good slab climbing skills.

STEGER route, Main peak, grade VI-, 700 metres:. This multi-pitch classic route could be the launching point towards the Dolomites big walls. This is a majestic route overcoming famous Catinaccio eastern face. Luckily, most of the tricky climbing sections are down below and rock is extraordinarily good throughout its 700 metres length.

DAY 1: Torre Pradidali

we will start off bright and early to tackle the 1000 metres ascent leading us to Pradidali mountain hut, a hike of around 3 hours. Once here, by the time we empty our rucksacks and take a break to fill-up it will be around 12 o’clock. However, with favorable weather conditions, we can make our way to nearby Torre Pradidali.

TORRE PRADIDALI, Franceschini-Fusai route, grade V, 150 metres. We will reach the base of this majestic isolated tower in around 25 minutes. A short climb on excellent rock, perfect for a day like this. After its ascent and descent, we will be at the hut again around 5 hours later, ready to enjoy our dinner.

DAY 2: Cima Wilma

CIMA WILMA, Castiglioni/Detassis route, grade V+, 300 metres. After a hearty breakfast, we’ll be ready to take on a new adventure. The approach to the base of this excellent route will take around 40 minutes. It runs partially over slabs, something very unusual at the time of the route opening. It will take around 4 hours to reach the top, after which we will start a complicated descent, taking us back to Pradidali hut in around 2 and a half hours.

Back down to the valley or…

DAY 3: Cima Canali

CIMA CANALI, Buhl route, grade VI-, 430 + 250 metres. Today will be about the gem of this area and the main purpose of our trip: Buhl route, on beautiful and demanding Canali’s peak. Its line, right below the vertical falling from the peak, is an exposed vertigo dance on excellent rock. The route will demand around 6 hours and, after a well-deserved break on the top, we will start the descent and we will be back at the hut about 9 hours after the day started. It’s evening now and a hearty dinner will calm our stomachs and our souls.
Back down the valley or…

Back down to the valley or…

DAY 4: Velo della Madonna

VELO DELLA MADONNA hut, Porton and Velo via ferratas. After yesterday’s efforts, a relatively relaxing day is in order: a late breakfast (7.30), a goodbye at the hut and another coffee and we will be ready to leave rifugio Pradidali at around 10.00. Today the plan is to move to rifugio Velo della Madonna along the Porton via ferrata, which will take us to the new hut in around 4 hours. Here the hosts are a nice young couple and they will make us feel at home in no time.

Back down to the valley or…

DAY 5: Cima della Madonna, end of hut tour

CIMA DELLA MADONNA, Via Spigolo del Velo (Veil’s Edge route), grade V, 400 metres. This route is so famous to be considered THE classic in the entire Pale di San Martino mountain group. It really does deserve its fame, as the entire route is on absolutely perfect rock. The summit is very scenic and the descent, pretty exciting and never trivial, will take us back to the hut in around 2 hours. After a break we will start the long hike down to get back to the car and end our tour.

DAY 1: Falzarego great tower

TORRE GRANDE di FALZAREGO (Falzaregos’ Great Tower), Dibona route, route V-V+, 300 metres. For the sake of settling in and getting acquainted, the first day’s choice will be a great classic on this pass: Falzarego’s towers. A wide spectrum of routes will lead us some spiky peaks. Dibona route is a splendid one, on some nice slabs and with two very interesting final pitches. It will take us around 5 hours to feel the satisfaction of having reached the top, another hour will take us back to our “home”.

DAY 2: Alverà route, Averau

MONTE AVERAU, Alverà route, grade IV-IV+, 200 metres. The first half of the day is a great imposing peak over val Costeana to the north and val Fiorentina to the south. Alverà route is a classic and fairly well known itinerary on excellent rock, never too difficult but somehow more demanding in its second half, thus leading to a greater sense of achievement as we pass the summit cross, 3 hours since we started our climb. Around 1 and a half hours will take us back to the Col Gallina hut.

End of the tour or…

DAY3: Tofana di Rosez firs edge

TOFANA DI ROZES’ FIRST EDGE, grade V-V+, 430 metres. We’ll set the alarm clock pretty early for today. Just after a brief car journey we’ll park by Dibona hut. The Tofana di Rozes looks like a medieval fortress on top of some huge towers: the pillars. No wonder it’s the rockstar among Cortina’s rocky walls. We will set on for the approach hike and, in 50 minutes, we’ll be at the base of an edge that will take 4 hours to surmount. After 1 hour and 20 minutes of descent, we can enjoy a well deserved beer at the Dibona hut.

End of the tour or…

DAY 4: rest or climb?

BEST-DAYS OFFER: Why not take advantage of it? Arms and legs will plead for mercy after 3 days of solid climbing! It’s the right time to enjoy a relaxing day, perhaps a stroll to a farm and have a nice lunch or a day shopping in Cortina. We will meet the Freedolomites guide again the day after, ready for another climb together.

DAY 5: North Lagauzuoi

NORTH LAGAZUOI, Drago route, grade V+, 280 metres. Today starts by taking the famous cable car taking us on top of ‘Little Lagazuoi’. This peak was the scene of strenuous fighting and colossal explosions during the 1916-1918 war. We can see its signs all around us during the brief hike taking us to the start of the route. This route manages to push through a smooth and almost “rejecting” wall by taking advantage of its weakest points. Rock is excellent, and we’ll be on the top in 5 hours.

End of the hut tour or…

DAY 6: Cima del Lago

CIMA DEL LAGO, Oglio dihedral route, grade IV-IV+, 350 + 50 metres. Another brief car journey will take us to Val Badia, a change of landscape, nevertheless incredibly beautiful.
The route we are going to tackle is another great classic on great rock. The only downside is the approach: an uphill hike lasting 1 hour 40 minutes. This effort is compensated by discovering the little charming alpine lake just by the start of the route.

End of the tour or…

DAY 7: Col Boccia, end of hut trip

COL BOCCIA, Ghedina route, grade V, 200 metres: a not very well known climb in a spectacular environment. The approach takes us about an hour, the climb will take us between 3 and 4 hours. The summit is great and very scenic, definitely the best place with which to end this intense week. Now we are full of good vibs, it’s time to spend the last night in a confortable hotel and perhaps relaxing in a Sauna.

DAY 1

TORRI DEL SELLA: in 45 minutes by car, we will reach Passo Sella and its most famous rock faces: Torri del Sella (Sella Towers). An easy 20 minute hike takes us to one of the many routes available.

Camini route direct, first tower, grade IV: a great classic that takes us right on top of the first tower.
Kostner dihedral, second tower, grade IV: interesting dihedral, this could be an add-on to the first tower route.
Messner route, second tower, grade V+: here, on the north face, Reinhold Messner has achieved one of its masterpieces.

These are only a few examples of the routes getting us acquainted to the typical Dolomite-style climbs.

DAY 2

MOIAZZA: in 40 minutes by car we can get to another pass, one a little more secluded than yesterday’s. Passo Duran offers a variety of routes, many of especially great quality. Today, getting to the route start will be a short hike as well.

Decima route, Pala delle Masenade, grade V+: steeply follows a black line carved by the water flowing, thus gifting us with some enjoyable and entertaining climbing.
Topo route, Torre Jolanda, grade IV+: an exceptionally beautiful tower’s summit, following some excellent rock.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

DAY 3

GIAU PASS: in half an hour we will reach fascinating Giau Pass. The imposing Lastoi di Formin’s west face will immediately catch our attention. Why not have a go?

Paolo Amedeo route, Torrione Marcella, grade V+: nice climb alternating cracks, slabs and dihedrals.
South-west face, Monte Gusela, grade IV+: a classic leading us on top of pretty Gusela (a.k.a. “The needle”)
Big Dihedral, Lastoi di Formin, VI: a route plowing through the great ramparts to the west of Lastoi di Formin.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

DAY 4

CIVETTA MASSIF: a few minutes by car from the hotel will take us to the start of the hike leading to the Coldai mountain hut in about an hour. Here we will have a nice coffee break before getting onto our feet again towards the Alleghe and val Grande tower.

Bellenzier route, val Grande tower, grade VI+: a climb commonly defined as “wonderful”. It follows a crack cutting through the huge smooth slab on the val Grande tower’s east face
Pierazzo route, Alleghe tower IV: a pleasant climb on great quality rock.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

DAY 5

CATINACCIO: after 40 minutes by car we will enter the Fassa valley, where many spires and faces are waiting for us. Up towards the Gardeccia group, the choice is ours.

Preuss route, Delago tower, Torri del Vajolet, grade IV: one of the Dolomites’ most impressive route; the fact such a daring route is ultimately of only moderate difficulty will leave us extremely surprised
Rizzi route, Roda di Vael, grade IV+: classic route of consistent grade.
Passeggiata sui Neri route, Cima Catinaccio, grade VI-: a sustained route on marvellous black slabs.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

DAY 6

MARMOLADA: the immensity of Marmolada towers high above our hotel, how can we miss the chance to handle its perfect rock?

“The world imprisoned by Materialism” route, Col di Bousc, grade VI+: a splendid, sustained climb on pretty much perfect limestone.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

DAY 7

FALZAREGO PASS: 40 minutes by car will take us to the well-known Falzarego pass. Here many many routes of excellent rock and short approaches are waiting for us.

Sass de Stria edge, Sass de Stria, IV: a pleasant exposed edge
Dibona route, Falzarego great tower, grade V+: the ultimate classic in this group
Orizzonti di Gloria route, Lagazuoi VI+: a relatively new route, offers some very pleasant climbing.

Possibility to finish the tour or…

DAY 8

SOUTH CIVETTA: we’ll go back to our ‘home’ mountain, but on its opposite side. To end with a bang, let’s make it a bit special: we will tackle the long 2-hour approach on an e-bike, thus reducing the effort to a mere 20 minutes to get to the base of the cliff.

Venezia tower, Andrich route, grade V+: a sustained climb on amazing rock reaches on of the Dolomites’ greatest tower tops.

DAY 9: end of our customised climbing trip

LAST DAY and getting home. The last night we cool down having a super tasting traditional dinner, and a sauna. Now it’s time to fly out or keep going with the trip…why not?